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I tried silicone while I was waiting for the gaskets I ordered.... didn't help one bit. I was leaking oil again 2 days later, only worse. You can try it, a couple people have said it actually worked for them, but I suspect that like most you're going to need new seals.

Can't remember if it's a N/A vs Turbo or LHD vs RHD thing, but a lot of people have issues with the routing when dropping in JDM engines... So I figured I'd mention it, just so it can be addressed if needed.

Isn't there a potential serviceability issue with kit #2 depending on whether the hoses are modeled off a LHD or a RHD?

Well, I'm pretty much finished with my tuning. I need to tweak the tip-in just a little and I may play with the temperature maps a little as I do tend to run a touch richer than I want when it's cold out. Overall I'm quite pleased with how my car is handling. The responsiveness is great...

N/As only have 1 knock sensor. TPS testing & calibration info: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=100

Most likely the port isn't corroded. You're probably looking at the old dielectric grease which is there to prevent the terminals from oxidizing. As for the smell, does it smell like oil? Start with cleaning the engine and try to get the top of the bell. housing as well. Then, clean the...

I really prefer the stock look of the dash... Matte Black Granite... it definitely represents the car well. ;)

Permatex makes a gasket remover which I've heard a few people say works well.... never tried it myself. Depending on the materials in the gasket simply soaking it for a minute or two with either Naphtha or Toluene or M.E.K. will soften it enough for you to just slide it right off. Can't...

Radiator Anatomy 101: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1603&P=3 And yes, they're rebuildable. Pulling the rad is cake. Drain the coolant, disconnect the two big hoses and the small one which runs to the overflow tank, then either remove the fan shroud or...

Deleted by the author: "Last edited by NJsupraA70 : 08-04-2006 at 02:40 PM."

True... so why not start with the inexpensive part first? Besides, no one brough it up. ;)

Thanks, that's what I was figuring. It'll be a little bit before I can afford the filter, so I'm just going to get the little stuff together first... couplers, clamps and build a box for it.

The cheapest would be to rewire them so they're no longer starved for power. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

They're almost local and they've got great prices. Takes 'em a day to get me couplers. EDIT: While we're on the topic of couplers does anyone know if the 80mm Apex'i flange for their universal filters is 80mm ID or OD?

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=14&osCsid=02212e7f42684704c5a7d978ccbd52e6

The stock display itself emits a greenish cast, putting a red filter over it really dims it. Just do it right and buy a red dual 7 segment display.... I've got a few around here, I think, lemme see if I can find one. Available from www.us.kingbright.com (DigiKey and a couple other online...

This has been covered in a few other threads... sorry, this one slipped under the radar. The pin-compatible display element Kai found works quite well. I've done several conversions with their parts (a couple different colors). I'm no longer doing this this mod for others though.

If it keeps blowing out then either your PCV plumbing is thoroughly clogged or you've got bad rings (which could possibly contribute to or cause your vibration issue).

Dude, stop sweating it. You didn't know, but know you do... that's what's important.

Get Apex'i, it filters better. ;)