Search results

I don't think we need pics. I'd just like a list or which vehicles used 3" and which used 3.5".

Have a multimeter? Know how to use it? Time to start testing. I'd start with looking for any third party additions or former taps locations that connect to that line. Otherwise you're just going to be doing a lot of testing. This isn't for the same year as yours and there are some...

Is that a 3" or a 3.5"? If it's a 3" do you recall what car it's from?

Didn't see anyone mention that you're also going to need a different drive shaft.

With a 3.93 diff 1/4 mile times wouldn't really help much... that and the fact that I doubt I'd do very well (not much of an off-the-line kind of driver). I don't think more aggressive cams would make for too great of an improvement, although I must admit I have been growing a bit curious.

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc~CartId~EVEREST%7B42F710EB-D64B-411E-84FD-07F134317C9B%7D~ic~02225180303~eq~0223inchmaf~Tp~.htm

Yes, 75ft lbs IF the threads are lubed with moly... it's higher if you're lubing them with motor oil. Dunno about the oil cooler.

As AJ said, warm engine make happy seal! :D Also, coolant flows through the lower intake manifold's flange under cyl. 2 or 3. If it's not a BHG the wall of the TB or ISC eroded enough to permit coolant into the intake or the manifold gasket is leaking. Your oil and coolant don't always...

Mainly because of the MASSIVE injectors you're using. ;) In Open Loop the ECU (or MAFT Pro in my case) isn't adjusting the fuel supply in order to maintain a given AFR (14.7 for example). Closed Loop is where the ECU adjusts the fuel supply to maintain a stoichiometric AFR using the signal...

Depends on how you want to set it up. It should run fairly close to stock when dropped in to a stock N/A. If the stock O2 sensor is left in place and connected the only thing to keep an eye on would be the AFRs in open loop. In your case, there'd still be quite a bit of tuning involved.

I was using the 3.5" MAF. It was used in a few vehicles equipped with the LS-1 but I don't recall any specific models. However, as I mentioned elsewhere in this thread, I recommend using a 3" MAF if you're not going to be tuning the system.

On the stock engine it's more likely to be the supply for the heater core. Here's what I think you're talking about: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8716&P=1 Big Wang's referring to the rubber cap on the metal hard line, shown here...

If I had to do it again..... well, I better not go there. Seriously, if I had to do it again I may have waited longer for someone else to figure out the bugs first. As for whether or not I would go with S/D from the start, I would have to say it depends on whether or not you've got a...

Well, if you're not having any richness or leaning out when you first step on the throttle, manifold pressure rises, or when you let off the throttle then you've been spared some head ache. I think it's more likely that you're just not seeing it in the Sensor Monitor page. It generally only...

Yes, I used a laptop. Without one you're liable to miss a lot of info. If you do not own a laptop the only other option (still nothing I recommend, especially if you're new to the system) would be tuning from the passenger seat while the vehicle is being driver by a competent driver. I don't...

Basically, it's aluminum or nickel platelets which you pour in and pray they don't clog any thing other then the leak.

So you're pretty much talking about swapping everything from the '89... that's a lot easier as you have all the parts, just make sure you're not going to need any of it for the 1JZ. If you're leaving the W58 in the '88 you'll need to swap the flywheels.. unless they're both auto. Are you...

Gauge fuse is under the dash, driver's side. CEL gets power from it as well. EDIT: CEL is also connected through M1. This shows where it is: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=28 In my car it's a yellow connector which connects into another yellow...

Check the 7.5A Gauge fuse and Junction M1. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=136 Some of the connectors sit fairly high up. Look above the ECU and back.

Are you intending to drop the GTE in the N/A or turbo the GE engine? I'm going to assume you're talking about rebuilding the GTE and dropping it in the N/A chassis: How long could it take? - Years. How hard is it? - How hard do you plan on making it on yourself? You've, presumably...