Search results

It's all good man. I think it's equally important that people understand why they're doing something. :D And I know you weren't trying to be rude. ;)

If it got hot enough to blow the BVSV apart then it got more than hot enough to do a lot of damage (hopefully when you say vacuum, you're referring to something else)... I really do hope that everything's fine.

I don't think either one presents more difficulty... the turbo's got a couple more components to move and the GE's just got a few more bolts on the intake. Anyway about it I don't think it's anything I'd call difficult on either engine.

I was just referring to Tek's comment about it happening with a MKIII. I'd be interested to know the length and gauge of that one.

More than likely it was 20 one thousandths or .02" which was removed. To put it VERY simply, the thicker the head gasket the lower the compression. But Starscream's question about the head is very relevant. To keep the stock compression you need to add the amount of material removed from both...

Sorry, there have been a few reports of aluminum one piece drive shafts failing... still haven't seen anyone post with issues with a steel one. (Knowing my luck, that's going to be me in a month.)

It's not that anyone's trying to attack you. There is good reason for retorquing.... it's called compression and stretching. After their first few heat cycles at a certain operating temp head bolts can and do stretch. It only a couple thousandths for you to loose upward of 10ft lbs of force...

The TB itself isn't going to net you more power. It should result in an increase in responsiveness though. If you've got an upgraded turbo and piping you could see more power simply from relieving the bottleneck.

If the bolts are new, retorque... if the HG is new, retorque. It's just cheap insurance and it doesn't take long.

No, there's always the possibility that there is more than one issue. First fix the leak.

The Sport package came with the 4.30:1 LSD (the LSD was available as a seperate option as well). ALL N/A's came with a 4.30:1 diff, the only difference was whether it was a LSD or Open diff.

If you've already got the head off I'd just replace all of the hoses and that cap in the back of the engine.

Given that the 4.30:1 diff is all that the N/A's ever shipped with I'd say that's rather likely. ;)

Personally, I'd refrain from pouring in coolant... I'd use gas before I poured in coolant.... I'd suggest pouring in some of the thinnest oil you can find. The cheap All-in-One household oil they sell at Home Depot and Lowes should work. Generally, you want something that's about as thin as water.

Sounds like alot of you need to go out and look at most of the cars on your street. MOST cars have more clearance in the front to reduce the chances of rubbing when the vehicle is turning. What you're seeing is just what you paid for: The stock stance, but lower all the way around...

What is it you guys are shooting for? A weaker 7M-GE than the one in the Cressida?

You can also kiss the ACIS goodbye and the timing advance will be less aggressive. You'd also need the AFM. It's always possible you could do it with some custom electronics, but the costs probably wouldn't be worth it.

Well, the N/A's FPR is no good for this application. If you're not going to be boosting more than 9 - 10 psi the stock GTE FPR should be fine for now. I was just making sure you weren't just going to be using the N/A injectors.

Don't forget injectors. ;) I would probably go with an AFPR.

That's probably the route I'd go as well. ;) Are you going to be using GTE electronics or are you sticking with the stock GE electronics?