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I recalibrated mine.

Estimating horsepower from 1/4 mile results is a very poor way of determining how much power you are putting to the wheels. The only formulas I've ever seen for doing this presume a consistent, linear progression from start to finish and they assume the same for the engine's power output...

Depending on how bad it is you may be able to patch it. Personally, I'd probably just replace it and beef up the replacement so it won't happen again.

You didn't sound like a dick at all. I may have, but I'm getting sick of people writing unintelligible posts and then bumping six minutes later when they don't get an answer quick enough. I accept the possibility that English may not be this person's native language. However, in that case...

In a two hundred and eighty mile road trip with only on ten minute stop to pickup my brother-in-law at the half way point I had no issues with comfort at all. I have a bad back and riding in some cars for more than ten minutes can make things painful for a week. Mine are '88 and cloth. I've...

Okay... I really couldn't tell what he/she was asking.

Are you loosing coolant via the overflow? The most common causes of that would be the radiator cap or headgasket. In this case I'd start with either having the radiator cap pressure tested or simply replace it. If that doesn't do it move on to the following suggestions. If you're loosing...

The pins in the connector on the MAFT Pro side are very robust. The most common (which is not to say that it's common) issue with this type of connector is that the retainer clip in the harness plug gets bent and the contact gets pushed back far enough to create an intermittant connection...

^^^yup, unburned fuel results in a leaner reading. Gixxer, how's the car like a lean cruise of 17:1? PM me if you'd rather.

We fix your TPS and now you're hauling ass like a madman down canyon roads?! Why wasn't I invited? :(

Hehe.... I've gotta start selling them. I've hit the rev limiter on mine at just a hair past 6800RPM (according to my MAFT Pro and the log). The only time I ever revved that high, I try to keep it under 6K. BTW, compare the RPM reading on your MAFT Pro to your tach sometime. The stock tach...

Really? Not any more. I was trying, but now I'm done with that.

Also, convert to speed/density and tune your cams.

Look, I'm not TRYING to be an asshole.... I'm just good at it. It's a gift. The resistor pack above the driver's side strut mount is used for the the low impedance injectors used in pre89 N/As and ALL turbo models. The 89 and newer injectors were specified to flow a TINY bit more fuel and...

Not over 20% more.

True enough, but threre are a couple more people than AJ across the US who've posted similar numbers 200RWHP with a stroked 7M... so even given the fact that dyno's are not good for comparisons, unless both cars are run on the same dyno one right after the other I'm still I'm still not buying...

Excellent, then let's get back to what the couple people in this thread who've also done a "shit load" of work on their cars keep on asking you..... "WHAT OTHER MODS?" You haven't listed one that'll give you that much more power over stock. A CLUTCH? WTF? Who cares.... they don't make ANY power...

ROFL!!!! Have you even seen AJ's build specs? Oh god, you're killing me! The originator of this thread is running lower compression than I am! He's got an aftermarket coil, he's running lean as hell, he's apparently using using high impedance injectors with the coil pack for the low impedance...

Presumably because the coil packs are the "da shit" or because someone's convinced they'll make more power running an N/A with a completely different fuel map, less agressive timing, and a KV AFM (which IMO is junk, just not quite as bad as the VAF AFM in the N/A)..... I can't recall which it...

The oil pan is different and so is the oil pump. I don't know if the oil pump's pickup can be moved or not. Personally, I'd put in a new pump.