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hey everyone ive finally decided to stop fighting to turn my car and figure out why my power steering is no longer operational now i know i had slightly leaky rack ( i think i can just replace the seals and boots, correct me if im wrong) up until about a week ago the powersteering leaked but...

ok the conector was on wrong i now have it connected properly and the code cleared itself

ok just so i get it strait how would you recommend i re torque. should i break them all loose and do it in 10 ft/lb increments or do it one at a time (break one loose and torque it back down before moving on to the next one) as for what ive done as per the rebuild ive replaced all the upper...

ok so now that the car is running im now getting a code 52 knock sensor i just filled her up with 93 octane so im sure its not that im wondering if its just a bad connection when i first start the car it runs fine then as soon as you get on it the it throws the knock code any ideas?

i just had my head shaved down a bit and it cost me $58 so i would venture to say that you could probably get it all done for about $200 ish anyone who has had this done feel free to correct me if im wrong

i got the car running properly and did a slight timing advance 12 degrees the problem was that the distributor was way off and the cams were set on the exhaust stroke flipped the cams and set the distributor and she started right up. thanks everyone for all your help

sorry i should have been more clear im talking about the compression stroke vs the exhaust stroke as far as flipping the cams cause there is tdc on each of the two strokes if you mistakenly set the cams to tdc on the exhaust stroke it wont work. the cams timing mark will be 180 degrees in the...

im also wondering how you can tell if your on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke and what difference this makes cause i ended up thinking i was on the exhaust stroke and fliped the cams 180 degrees now its seems like it wants to turn over but its harder more of a rythmic...

nope its not throwing any codes

yes i pulled the spark plug and put an extendy magnet down on the piston i rotated the crank manually till it showed that the piston was at the top of the compression stoke i looked down at the crank pulley and it showed the timing marks and its at 0 i keep pulling the cam cover and checking...

i remembered the grounds im not sure what you mean by 90 degrees off its right on the #1 and everything is set to tdc cams and crank

ok its driving me nuts now i put the motor back together after the head gasket job and it refuses to start im getting spark and fuel i set the distributor right on the 1 spark plug position the crank is set at tdc the cams are set at tdc as well and it is on the compression stroke i...

ok i was just a lil misguided im just trying to lessen the amount of oil that actually gets into the intake tract so im guessing that the catch can is the only way to clean those vapors before they go into the intake??????

i was thinking if it was possible to add a pcv valve to our pcv system its just an idea cause im sick of having oil in my intake if this isnt possible then im just gonna make myself a catch can i figure this might be a lil simpler tho any input would be greatly appreciated

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/ts240/?action=view&current=DSC_0380.jpg&newest=1 http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc193/ts240/?action=view&current=DSC_0381.jpg&newest=1 thats what the valves look like after soakin in degreasser for a few days and now some seafoam ive been scraping...

i sent a bare head to the shop but i have the valves soaking in some seafoam wich is really doing the trick and no one has responded to my new thread for the valve seals in the wtb section if its not too much trouble i would really appreciate you even taking the time to look for your extra set

ok i sent the head off to the machine shop they will let me know the verdict in the morning i had one other question how do you know if your valve stem seals are bad i only ask because im having the worst time acquiring a new set to be on the safe side the ones i had didnt appear to be...

ok so im trying to get the head clean and the bottom of it is not really smooth it doesnt look like it can be scraped with a razor how else can i get the last bits of gasket material off

no i dont need a full set cause i already got the other components just need the valve seals

hey does anyone know where i can order valve stem seals from other than the dealer or autozone