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maybe if you buy a jdm rhd switch and convert it but the thing is the more you use it the faster it wears out. i rarely use mine. it takes wat 5 sec for the window roll down. are your pass that f#$%ing lazy?

bent traction arms and shitty bushings. svnmpwr1990: are you serious? there are no bushing in the rear end.

no. egr does not have anything to do with starting. does it crank? do you have any codes? do you have fuel? do you have spark?

stock psi at ilde with the 7m is like 5psi and at 3k is like 40psi. its a high volume low pressure design. does not sound anything out of the ordinary. most mechanics are looking for like 20-40 psi at idle and 60-80 psi at 3k which is not even close to stock for the 7m.

set your boost down to 10psi and see hat happens. fuel cut is there to save you not just so you cant have as much power. if you really want to up the boost you should look into 550's, lex afm, afpr, and a fuel controller. there are proper ways to mod these cars and a fcd is not a proper way...

i wouldn't think the cover would be different even in a airbag car since the only thing for the air bag is 2 wires and the air bag in the steering wheel? please prove me wrong. heat does play a roll with plastic and it may not line up properly from car to car. i had my covers sitting off...

from my under standing of what you just said i should just stick to the gc? i drive my car hard not really anything past 4k usually but i dont baby it by any means. plus i really like the gc. i went from 5w30 mobli1 tried 10w30 mobil1(engine sounded like it hated that on start ups) to the gc...

basically but your n/a so whats the point(going by sig). you can relocate the charcoalk canister to behind the fender wells and reroute vacuum lines to where you cant see them. but unless you go standalone and there is no need for vauum lines and certain sensors there no point. might as well...

egr if you have a jdm ecu or stand alone. everything else just try to hide. edit got beat.

how are your rack bushings? when the get oiled up the rack tends to go left and right versus staying in one place which will cause wonder on both ends.

jdub, im sure redline anything is good but how does the 0w30 redline compare to the gc?

gc is a thicker 30w at op temps. redline makes a 0w30 and 0w40 5w30 and 5w40. imo i prefer the gc over redline. i would use redline and can get it at cost but i like the gc.

wait so you jumpered the fuel pump and nothing?

the actuators are designed to go bad in the open position and then you'll just have non abs brakes.

isc, tps, maf.

syn is not going to affect it. wat rp did you use 5w30 or 10w30? either way there all still a 30w at op temps. sure you just dont have something loose down there? what is your oil pressure at idle and at 3000rpms hot? where exactly is the noise oming from front rear? need some more info.

fuel filters are life time filters. but anything is possible.. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=16 check isc, plugs, tps, afm, etc the usual stuff.

euro's got blue? i think mine is blue maybe ill check later.

stock head bolts are stretch type one time use like most toyotas.

pull the turbo nad further inspect it and possibly get it rebuildt.