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sounds to me like you might have a line plugged in the pcv system. some how or another seems like you are boosting the crankcase as well as the engine. make sure the ports under the valve covers are clean as well. some have baffles, if plugged your pcv system is not working.

how does the car run? does it start fairly easy on a cold engine? you said there is no smoke right? everytime i have ran into bad rings on any engine it would smoke.

What does the oil look like? what about under the oil cap?

venting the bov to atmo doesnt always cause the car to stall, mine never dies, or hasnt yet. revving it up and lettin off doesnt do anything either. I had a bad afm that would cause the same conditions.

Good luck with that one i pulled the cover off a busted one i had and it looks like a solid state component the way everything is covered. but if you can do it let me know i got 2 that i would like to fix

If you do the one piece have it priced out at a driveline shop, i got mine for 98 bucks, it is built with the strength of the ones they use in there rock crawlers. (will handle up to 600/600, when and if i take this car that far)

how do i tell the difference on them? the both look identical minus the steel thickness. I take that back the one gasket might be a 2.0 it looks alot bigger than i originally thought. so maybe i can just work with that one and build around that?

does the car run first? that part was left out and would be a major help in trying to diagnose.

Ok i am not familiar with rebuilding foreign engines (knowledable of american) Anyways i have a spare block and head that i am planning on rebuilding, not as a daily driver. I plan to build it from the bottom up inside and out. I have two mhg's one is the hks 1.2 and the other i believe is a...

^ or wrong plugs maybe as well

the leak is either your bov or that is the wastegate opeing up under steady boost. to read codes you need to jump the pins in the diag connector by battery, use paperclip and jump pins te1 and e1. Take note that with pins jumped if you press on throttle the check engine light will set a...

Not unless the bov is not sealing up (being forced open by boost) letting air out, doing the same thing as when it purges, or vents? Would be a boost leak. EDIT we still need more info on codes as well

Sometimes an aftermarket bov on an afm will cause the stalling, has happened to me a few times but not as often as most people on here claim. the cause of the stall, is the release of the metered air, where in most cases it is recirculated to accordion tube. As far as when you are in boost, that...

I made my own as well, offered the site cause along with that they also have other useful things relating to turbos. I went through hell making mine, took awhile to find the correct size coupler, they just didnt have the right ones in stock

siliconeintakes.com has boost leak testers, that is if the diy thread does not satisfy you. they are like 30 bones i believe but weigh out your options.

I was not asking IJ why you replace them, someone else had asked, of course you wouldnt splice new connectors in. this is a big case of mis reading posts.

unfortunately when i had done the tests on my afm they passed?

I know how this works i was replying to the post that was asking IJ why you replace connector after unplugging. And if a cylinder does not fire isnt that along the same lines as a misfire? on a more controlled basis? EDIT: read quote from IJ post above that was what my post was referring to...

Mine was actually faulty afm. purchased 4 and lucky number 4 worked. As for the egr testing i did, disregard it was plugged on back of head so i was creating the vac leak. I should have updated along time ago, but my fault was the afm and the used ones i had purchased.

i can see in some cases that these plugs might be good, for certain cars with certain mods or whatever, but with the 7m it just seems like this is engine is a bitch and if you dont make her happy she will quit ya. I plan on steering clear of the e3's have heard nothing good on my end.