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ahh my problem is I already bought a sparco one with red stitching on black leather, looks similar to his but the bottom is thick elastic instead of thin leather so it won't mate to the factory bracket. I'll just have to improvise tomorrow when I feel a little more creative.

I was swapping in my new short shifter and decided to get a whole new knob/boot to go with to replace the old leather. needless to say all the new ones are elastic and the original was wrapped in a thin leather around the metal bracket. Anyone have any creative ways of making it look oem? I was...

yeah if you get a set of cams and cam gears you'll prolly have a mean 13 second n/a car. plus with nirous, wowzers.

mise well get an air fuel pressure regulator to go with it then and have your fuel pressure where you need it to be. I know the lexus AFM can give you some piece of mind but it doesn't hurt to know all the information you need.

yeah but stock turbos don;t pull hard after 5500 rpm, even if the ct26 pulls hard to 6k it's gunna start leveling off, this is when AFPR and wideband o2 sensor is a good idea to monitor, it's also an easy 500$+ combo.. the other route is an SAFCII and get someone to tune into a safe range for...

AFPR and make sure your fuel pressure stays up and you should be able to push 16lbs without fuel-cut. you might need to go SAFCII when you start getting close to twenty, this is about 400$

maybe you got a size too big? edit: probably could just take a square piece of metal and drill two holes to make your own bracket.

supercharger time! haha but that's awesome, how much have you put into your n/a? it sounds a little more then BPU.

thats sick, I wanna see someones 1jz do that and atleast give me a little hope in life haha

yeah you might need a rebuild already, grandavi's 57-1 trim didn't last 600 miles, hes got a 60-1 now and I think hes having trouble with the actuator. 20 year turbo technology is still 20 year old technology when it comes down to a rebuild/upgrade and the shell is still the same. I got c12a-s...

I'm missing mine so I'm at no help, maybe ask some people in your area if they even have aftermarket ones to copy.

you could just search for it

wierd I just thought of this thread and you posted in it. I want some for the stock twins I don't think this will help me =/ I might have to ask my friend if he can figure out something better for the Y pipe and manifold so I don't have to reroute my IC piping too much.

I want an 89+ carbon fibre front lip!!!

hahahah, yeah that was good though.

are they 370's? you could pick up some 440s for probably a 100$ pop them in and then feel safe about running up to 18lbs. I upgraded my stock twins internals and was thinkin about putting cams in but I heard they still drop off around 6000rpm, you should dyno your car for reference =p

this is sad to hear I just started following your thread, you sounded pretty pumped to compete in the next class now it seems out of your grasp. You sure you wouldn't want to get the splitter and a new wing and atleast try a few races in your next class?

honestly I would check into actuator before dumping this turbo, also if people are saying the S stamp marks a 60-1 and you have an A this could mean you got the 54-1 and it would be worse then the 57-1. (unless your refering to the c26a like a c12a) you MAY or MAY NOT have gotten the wrong...

haha, this works perfect for me, I'm installing a boost controller on the blitz access ecu you sold me and it has alot of features that use the same wires.

welded def is more for drag racing.. so replacing it would of been a simpler solution wouldn't of it? :icon_roll