If a lift is very easy access then yes, otherwise in the driveway on stands should be no more than an hour. I took 3 hours and that was with a couple 15 minute smoke breaks, stopping to clean the reservoir (it was black), and snapping pics.
The pic with the arrow is the 'bolt' that needs a...
Depends on the sub you get. If you get an 'amplified' sub (like most of the bazooka tube line) then the amp is built in.
Even running your main 6.5" speakers on an amp will sound better than the head unit 99.9% of the time though. (will depend on speaker setup and which headunit vs which amp...)
Got mine done over the weekend. No sense in posting pics as they're almost identical. There really is only 1 way to route it.
Of course mine is still dripping but at least the reservoir and lines have been cleaned and ruled out. It appears to be the pressure port on the pump so I ordered up...
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDV006A
HPF includes the 'spring kit' with it. (at least they did when I bought mine)
Is the 71 resolved?
If the 52 code came back after doing a HG job then you may want to recheck the wiring. Lots of stuff coming in and out under the hood could have knocked something loose or possibly cracked a knock sensor.
Either code will put the ECU in 'fail safe' IIRC. 52 for sure, not...
Was just going to say the same thing.
Currently I think they're looking at a big 4th of July celebration. (building dependent)
It will be an 'all car' meet but there should be plenty of nice Supras. ( 1000hp 2j MK3, several 1000hp+ MK4, my car that badly needs paint... )
(Titan info at...
I can also vouch for that first hand as I got my first ticket in 5+ yrs two days after I fixed my code 52. The car just ran so smooth I had to open it up a little.
I did mention the richness and timing though (lack of power being the end result). DBN just flat out said 'it won't allow you to...
Where did you hear this?
The ECU goes into 'safe' mode which runs rich and has a failsafe timing pattern, but does not stop you from boosting. I know this first hand as I had a 52 forever (ended up being the sensor itself) and could still push 6 psi all day long. It just ran pig rich and the...
How exactly is it going into 'safe mode'? Are you noticing a difference in power levels, is the light on the dash coming on, what's happening exactly?
And describe this 'major lag'. What are you comparing it to? What kind of setup does the car have?
Without some basic info about the problem...
This is what Rayall meant, it was a simple mistype.
It should read: If it's 'outside air' than it's....
And the speed of the air doesn't make it cooler. Think of a warm breeze, it's still a breeze but it's hot air.
Think of the air going through the 'cooling unit' like you would think of...
Using recirc or fresh air?
There isn't anything in the ECU / AC system that would change based on gear.
If it's recirc than it's probably just the speed of the incoming air not allowing it to get cold enough. I only use 'outside air' to initially cool the car from being parked in the sun...
Just posted some pics with the panel off above (post #9).
BTW, I checked mounting depth and the shallow part is 2 3/4" using 5/8" MDF with 3/4" further it can be pushed out without 'rubbing' giving 3 1/2" if using a ring.
It could either be bad wiring at the gauge cluster like IJ said, bad wiring at the sensor (on the t-stat housing, which is common), or you could have what I had which is a lot less common but possible.
Mine ended up being dead solder joints on the gauge itself. I pulled the cluster, heated up...
That write up was done on a 91 that already had 6.5", and he still had to trim the door panel. And it's not really on SM, it's on carforum.net. I was going to do a quick write up for the masses that just want to run 'standard' 6.5" with minimal effort, not extra deep or component.
That sucks...
I never saw it, but I never searched for it either.
: ed :
Just searched and found the 5.25" install, but not the 6.5". Different enough to warrant a new how-to in my book.
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