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Just drive it around for a day or two before making a long trip and you should be fine. If it doesn't go out in a couple hundred miles around town then if it blows it wasn't from your workmanship. ;)

Listing the chipset for a single handset is not what I was talking about. Android OS will run on many different 'platforms' that don't all have the same hardware. Droid is a term that is used to both describe the Motorola Droid series of handsets (note I said series of as there are different...

It all depends on your trust of the person doing the work and of the engine that was installed. If you have a reasonable level of trust for both then drive it around for a couple days and put a couple hundred miles on it before driving long distance. If you don't trust one or the other...

Helps in the time travel process. ;) Look for the wires in the online TEWD: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/

+1. Most 7M heads need at least 2 or 3 of the studs helicoiled. I used the DriftMotion exhaust stud upgrade kit while I had mine apart recently. 2 bolts completely gone so I went ahead and upgrading 4 out of the 7 (the other 3 may as well have been welded in as they wouldn't budge)...

My nickname when I was a kid was 'boo boo' and not as in Yogi's buddy. If it's possible for me to cut/scrape myself I likely will. Chipped my glasses when an exhaust bolt broke free and the wrench smacked me. Bruised a cheek when a valve spring let loose while putting in my Comp Cams springs...

Toyota engines are extremely blood thirsty. I've split my thumb open, scraped knuckles bad enough that they won't stop bleeding for 30+ minutes, left a chip mark in my glasses, and burned myself more times than I can count.

iPhone vs Droid is like Mac vs PC. An iPhone is always an iPhone where the Android OS is just an OS. When someone buys a 'droid' phone there's no telling what sensors, processor, memory... are included. Kind of how a Mac is a Mac but a PC could have AMD or Intel processors, AMD or nVidia...

Denso = OEM Toyota quality part

Bringing this thread over from SF? Today: drove it to work Tomorrow: driving the nephew over to the Simply Clean 2 show (gotta support local shows even if they are stance/flush shows)

This is why I use: Windows for work. OSX for home (web browsing, burning CDs, hooking up my ipod/iphone...) XBox360 for games. Back in the day developers cared about us PC gamers. Now we're lucky if every now and again a good game will still come along (StarCraft II ;) , maybe Diablo III).

Have you tried resetting the phone? Hold 'power' and 'home' buttons for ~10 seconds and you'll see the apple logo.

If it's loud enough to hear the hiss then it's likely affecting your idle. Get 6 Toyota part number 23291-41010. $3.29 each at your local dealer. I changed mine out in about an hour last weekend.

Do you know how many times people come in here and say 'I have no boost leaks' and it turns out to be a boost leak? And pressurizing the pipes will only cover 90% of what can leak anyways (why I mentioned my fuel injector gasket problem, 1.5 psi drop in fuel cut). You can still lose pressure...

How are you measuring max psi before fuel cut? Peak and hold gauge, eyeballing your gauge...? Boost leaks can cause fuel cut to kick in sooner. Using myself as an example I raised my fuel cut from 11.5 psi to just over 13 psi by replacing the fuel injector o-rings (FI to head side).

Unless you've upgraded the oil system ~40 psi is the max you will ever see. The pressure relief opens up sending oil through the cooler. On Castrol 5w30 I see ~10psi at idle, ~30psi at cruise (2500-3000 rpm), and 40psi/max at just over 3500 rpm. This is on a 210k oil pump/piston rings, fresh...

87-88 Instructions: http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=41 This worked just fine on my 87. Instructions vary for 86.5, 87-88, and 89+.

Can't wait to see this one. Porsche will win but you should hang pretty well.

Just posting another glowing review for DM. Got the stud kit to do while I had the head out for BHG. Everything went smooth as butter and the kit was well worth the cash.

Basic timing on a 7MGTE is fairly simple. 1) Jumper T1/E1 (T/E1 in some) in the Diagnostic Block behind the battery/fuse box 2) Hook up timing light (use #1 spark plug wire) 3) Start the car 4) Point the timing light at the top of the crank pulley 5) Loosen 12mm bolt on the Crank Position...