If you look at the bottom of the blower assembly there's a plate with one screw holding it in and a 4 or 5 wire harness plug running to it. Pull it out and you should see a few coils on the other side... that's it.
Just making an educated guess...
That's pretty much what's written on the unit itself. :icon_bigg
We will never forgive you...
Relax, no ban vote here yet... there's always the possibility the OP will prove himself and will make something of that Supra. Afterall, he/she did find SM.
Shouldn't be a problem if he's running speed density with the MAFT Pro. I'm thinking configuration error.
91blackeye, did this trouble just creep up out of the blue or is this since you've modified things (such as adding the Pro)?
205/55 here; Blizzaks (no studs) up front and studded snows (don't remember what make or model right now) in the rear. I've never had a problem in the snow... well, except for that time I was still on my summer tires. :icon_razz
Here are the details on checking for codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
The cracked vacuum lines need to be replaced, your idle isn't going to be smooth until you replace them, just buy a kit and replace all the vacuum lines...
No air moving at all, regardless of the temperature selected or fan speed? If so, it's possible that all the coils in the blower resistor are shot... I'd check those before digging in to the heavy stuff.
Driver... I had TONS of problems with my Prolific adapter until I found just the right driver. Uninstall the drivers for it, remove the CD and try manually installing this driver.
I haven't had a problem at all since I found this driver. This one is actually from Prolific, all the others I've...
If the wastegate or the actuator is stuck how easy it will be to fix will depend entirely on HOW it is stuck. If it's a problem with the actuator then you should try moving the linkage which runs from the actuator to the exhaust housing forward. If it moves but is reluctant you might try...
I'm in agreement with the others here that you're worrying more about this than necessary. The location of your IAT is the same as most of us run without problems. I also agree you need to get the air filter out of the engine bay or box it.
If you do want to move the sensor out of the bay...
You would like to know what?
Grim, Bob is right; an errant current could be causing your Vf issue as well. Test the OX line for voltage the next time this occurs.
An open or short to ground on the O2 sensor line should result in a Vf reading of around 0... BUT, there's still going to be fluctuations as the TCCS presents more information via that line than just basic fuel corrections... they're just more minute so you're going to need a scope to read them...
Hey Bob,
That's my website and guide. Hosting's not a problem; I pulled it and my Supra related info pending a rebuild of the site, more complete information and the filling in of some major gaps. If you can make some time to help me go through the worksheet/guide (I'll be removing the...
Well, you should have asked me then... right? ;)
It's a common enough error. You could check ebay for a suitable adapter. Otherwise I'd just sell it and buy the right one.
K&N??? Eh? Get the Apex'i, as yu seem to already know, it's MUCH better.
That'd be great if yu could get me those...
Whichever uses a VAF. ;)
EDIT: 91 - 95 MR2 Turbo - P/N 507-T007
It includes a heat shield, two mounting brackets and the adapter. You'll either have to modify the brackets or do without them.
Here's a link to a store which shows the kit and all the parts. As you can see the kit is also...
For the 7M-GE you want the Apex'i that's made for the SW20 MR2. Comes with an adapter for the VAF.
What did you pay for the filter you've got? I think the SW20 kit runs $130 or so.
Edit: while we're on the subject, could someone give me the dimensions for the Apex'i filter? Just diameter at...
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