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Well, I think it may be PN: 84903-14031 for the driver side and 84903-14021 for the passenger side. Champion Toyota shows them with a MSRP of $41.73 and $34.90, respectively. They sell them for $31.71 and $26.50. Call your dealership or Champion to verify that those are the correct part numbers...

Okay, so is it a new challenge or game? How many people can post a new thread just to post a link to redirect traffic to another site AND not even post ANY info about what the hell the thread on the other site is about!?!?!

I should have better qualified my statement and added that the venting to atmosphere with an already bad idle was *most likely* the source of the stalling.

Unlock it from the trunk. I don't know what the switches cost new. They mount to the back of each lock cylinder.

Posting a new thread just to link to a thread on another site?? WTF? I can't remember if it's allowed per the TOS, but it's bad form, IMO.

Oddly enough it wasn't said: If by re-seal the person/people you've spoken to meant replace the valve cover gaskets then yeah, they probably could use replacing if they're the originals; If they meant "just throw sum sillycone on ther and git r dun!" then no...

Yeah, I figured as much from reading the URL.

A screwed up idle is (probably) indicative of a leak somewhere after the AFM. Stalling when the BOV discharges it the result of not tuning for the loss of measured air that the ECU still thinks is heading for the engine. I don't know of any way around the stalling issue aside from adding a fuel...

Hell, you can get a MAFT Gen II for $300... tuning, AFR tracking and MAF translation... I wouldn't go with anything that didn't offer control over the fueling; Otherwise you just don't know what you're going to get. EDIT: The Gen II runs $250.

New grommets and new gaskets FTW. If you've overtightened the fasteners you may want to check the flatness of the base of the covers.

Given the layout of our intake and the wall between the headlight areas and the intercooler unless you're missing the undercovers I think you'd see very little of whatever you're spraying end up in the intake. Now if your filter is in the engine bay... well, you've already lost enough power, why...

Do you have the radiator fan shroud in place? Have you inspected the fan clutch?

Yeah, I'm not even seeing VSV2 listed in the TEWD.

YES, I'm bumping a very old thread. I'll go one better and log it.... granted I am N/A-T now so my results may be a bit incomplete due to higher manifold pressure at lower throttle, but it's a start. AJ could log his though for a closer image of things... his car's not stock either but it's...

Just to add to this: 7M-GE+T guys who are running the N/A electronics could use the ACIS VSV's wiring to trigger the spray setup. MAFT Pro users could use the ETPS feature as a trigger if you add a comparator.

Yup, but you're not going to like them... Start with testing the radiator cap and then thoroughly inspect the coolant system for leaks. If those checkout fine it's time to start looking for signs of a blown head gasket. Any smoke when the car is running? If so, what color?

TE1 = T in the '88 TSRM and I believe my diag box just says T or T1

Have you tried a local hydraulics shop? I'd read all the horror stories about NA-T oil lines and the BSP ports and no one ever being able to find a fitting. I called around and the third shop I called had all kinds of BSP stuff. Try calling Pirtek: http://www.pirtekusa.com/locations.asp...

If you persist in pointing out the obvious I'm not playing anymore. :icon_razz It doesn't have a bend sharp enough at either end to meet up with the TB either; Probably because what's pictured is an intake kit for an Accord, IIRC. I just noticed they do say the kit does come with an...

An inch?? ' = foot , " = inch You need to cut a foot out of the pipe in the middle for the AFM and you'll also need an adapter to pount the front section of pipe to the AFM. The Apex'i kit (the kit for the Turbo SW20 MR2) has an adapter which mounts the filter to the front of the AFM, just no...