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im definetly gonna be there... for real this time. -pete

sounds interesting.... i might roll through in a few weeks with a few people -pete

the water temp sender is in the same location it has always been, in the water neck. there could be a problem with the line that goes from the sender to the gauge (mech gauge). since its liquid filled, i might have damaged it by kinking the line im gonna order a new electric temp gauge and see...

are you asking what the average coolant temp should be? or the actually block temp? two totally different things -pete

this thread has got me thinking. i just finished with my build, and have the opposite problem. my machinist told me how much material was removed from my head and block (dont have the info with me), but we didnt know how much was removed in a previous rebuilt (previous owner). So just to be...

lol wheelstuds should not break at all unless you use and impact gun (no way to measure torque), or overtightening by hand. ALWAYS use an accurate torque wrench to tighten lug nuts! -pete

i maxed out the spedo in my 87 turbo on the Garden State Parkway. was racing a shelby cobra. the spedo was past where 150mph should be. there was a slight curve in the road and a felt the rear starting to float so i backed off. didnt catch the rpms and dont remember which tires i was running...

if you have any reason to believe an injector is not working, then i wouldnt drive the car until you have to problem diagnosed by a professional if you cant do it on your own. you could cause serious damage to your motor if this is the case -pete

which wideband are you using? if your using the lc1, have you tried the free air calibration according to the instruction manual? -pete

ive got the 67mm DBB. spools fast and pulls hard. just finished with a build and im still working out the kinks so i havent really had much time with it. gonna get tuned and dynoed in a few months so im not sure of what numbers ive reached -pete

yes thats correct, and yes they go on and stay on until the temp drops.... even if the car is off

clanking is coming from the engine bay when im idling after a hard pull. cant figure out exactly where once i open the hood. im running electric fans with a thermo switch in the radiator at 180 F. i also have a toyota thermostat in the water neck.... like stock

when i first start the car its about 80 psi.... its around 15psi at hot idle....i believe. ill let you know tomorrow with an exact number.

im gonna change it tomorrow before i leave for vacation. ive driven it about 25 miles. ive got plenty of straight 30 weight to last me a lifetime. and a pretty good stock of redline fluids all around. still cant figure out why the car is so jumpy tho -pete

when i first started it up, i didnt notice anything. i hear the noise after the engine was warmed up. and the clanking wasnt constant. only after i came to a stop and was idling for a minute or so. then it stopped after about 2-3 minutes. also, my car never went up to full operating temp...

thanks everyone.... still working out a few kinks. small leak from an AN fitting on the oil cooler. today after i drove some more, ive noticed that the motor is a bit choppy... almost as if there is miss. cant seem to get AFR rich enough in the mid to high loads. ive tried setting the base...

check out your shims son....

go with toyota full engine gasket kit... you wont be sorry. i only payed around $230 plus shipping from champion toyota (ask for jeff watson). -pete

yo.... im up and running. im going away on sunday, so i wont be back till after labor day weekend. im available after that for weekend meets (at night) or during the week. let me know -pete

well... it turns out the cause of the oil leak was right next to the turbo return, i forgot to put in the 1/8" plug that belongs there. i also forgot about the egr in the back of the intake manifold... i make the first run with a huuuge vacuum leak (speed density... thank god). the car...