I'll weigh in here again.
If you have something I want, and you have no need to sell it, I had better be awfully damn nice when I come asking for it. The fact that someone is asking me for advice instead of a physical object doesn't figure into the equation.
Another bit to consider.
When...
There is no way in hell that overpressuring the coolant system from a BHG will blow those out unless they are seriously shot to begin with. You'd split every rubber coolant hose on the engine long before then and let all the pressure out.
The only way I know of to blow the freeze plugs out is...
So did I. It took over 20 psi to start really damaging the engine - and anyone that says there's no power difference between 22psi and 10 psi on a stock CT obviously hasn't driven both.
I feel that I should point out I was TRYING to kill the engine... and also admittedly the engine damage...
If you do - or anyone does, for that matter, let me know. There are few things that annoy me more than useless threads, and that would be completely useless.
IMO (and I like to think that my opinion carries a bit of weight around here) telling someone to search is useless. It annoys the newb...
Yes, absolutely true.
You need a GM MAF - pretty much any one, personally I used one from the Impala SS. These can be had on eBay for pretty cheap every so often, usually under $50.
Then you need a MAFT from Full Throttle Motorsports. I seem to recall the price for these being ~$200, but...
I suspect that's a caching issue on your computer - he asked that his forum be disabled for a short period to do some housecleaning, but it's back on now.
Try clearing your cache and reconnecting, see if you have better results.
I don't think you'll find many people who are willing to seriously debate that the 1J is better. Anyone who purchased a Mk3 shell and intended to install a built engine, big snail, standalone, and supporting mods right out of the gate would likely buy a 2J - at that level, the cost difference...
Check the alternator and battery, those will often cause problems with stalling when the lights are on.
Then check the usual - plugs, wires, does it use a distributor? If so then cap, rotor...
I suspect that you'll get the best flow when the IC is perpendicular to the road. But if you're really thinking about max airflow, just chop up some sheetmetal to force all the air into the IC, like a giant funnel.
Stock Turbo only measures air velocity and ambient pressure, no reference to temperature, therefore, cold air resistor mods wouldn't work.
The AFM (Air Flow Meter) which sits directly behind the air filter is the single biggest input into when the ECU triggers fuel cut from overboosting, so...
A bit more explanation. Your thermostat is what keeps your coolant from circulating from your engine through your radiator until it's hot enough to open the thermostat. Sounds like yours has frozen in the open position, meaning that coolant is always circulating, and therefore it's cold longer...
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