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so it separated the tubes from the end tanks?

noise, NO. The car feels a LOT tighter now. the body roll from quick turns of the wheel is 100% improved. Think camry turn in, body roll and steering turn in to a corvettes. Mine were looser then they should have been, results may differ....

nuts, my flex is in the downward section of the dp. How ever id still leave the flex alone and raise it up like i mentioned above. You NEED it man. The tension on the head or turbo flange was never in the design plans with an aftermarket (NOT perfect fit) dp involved.

FUCK! open cell sound deadener is VERY effective and costly aftermarket.

leave the flex and shorten the pipe above it to raise it up above the frame rail. What dp? my defcon is an inch below the frame rail and ive split it open on speed bumps. the flex section is your friend! it will allow some give which will keep the header studs in the head and other pieces...

i want the sound deadener dont throw it away! pm me if its not all hacked to pieces.

i just re did the tq on all of them and was quite surprised. Even ones that took a 3' breaker bar to loosen were in the 70-80 ft lb range. Feels like a sports car instead of a camry on the turns now, well worth the hour to check them all good pointer poodles!

^ pull the IGN fuse at the driver kick panel (7.5 maroon fuse) and the car wont start either... at least you get to stay in the car!

I think the pcv is one of the most over looked areas when upgrading. i had to open my valve cover ports up to a larger thread to keep the dipstick and oil in. Mind you compression is 155-160 across the board as well. Yes a tight sealing motor would solve the issue, how ever i dont think i...

3rd on the pics!

yes i over looked that in my post and recommend making the sender fit on the engine side for the same reasons the ecu and gauge senders do... good point jj

checking voltage at the harness connector showed 12v or rather what ever the battery voltage was reading (12.6 off, 13.3 running).

one of the fittings on the coolant elbow. pick a sensor to remove or drill a new hole and tap.

check your vf's. The extra blue wire can be tapped into the vf signal and you can use the safc to look at those (easier then having to pop the hood every time).

yes, and should force open loop and a vf of 0v. when its unplugged.

sorry for the delay, been a bit busy.

my stock bottom end handles the sp61 just fine at 15-18 psi. Stock parts have shown no weakness on mine yet (rods and pistons). Ive made the connection that a built motor "should" have something other then a stock ecu controlling it to take advantage of the potential. A standalone may not be...

Jic works well for an alternative to AN (usually 1/3 the cost too!).

seems kind of against the tide if the clutch is involved in regards to rk, unless your thrust bearings are gone... I know my valves make noise due to loose specs, has a distinct tap/rattle as you get into the gas at the low rpms right off idle or a bit above.

what are your vf's at? did you tune with the safc yet? does yours have an extra blue wire that is not used?