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i put two that low. One at 800rpms and one at 1800rpms. Any corrections at 800 rpms will smooth out to zero by 1800 rpms to avoid messing with the close loop control to much.

I never fully corrected my funky warm restart/idle issue. However readjusting my dashpot cleared up 90% of my low idle when coming out of gear issue. Also adding fuel back in at idle with the safc to please the vf's has sovled or mostly eliminated warm restart isssues. Hot restarts are...

^AFM :icon_bigg

^ the vsv allows the regulator to see atmosphere pressure on a hot startup to help reduce vapor lock. Its ecu controlled. You will notice some low idling on a hot start and the wideband pegging lean with out this.

^ your posts dont inspire confidence in your understanding on checking codes. That is why he most likely questioned you. Or he just didnt read the whole thread:) you swap the afm for another? electronics only...

pic? the inner tie rod has a lock washer on the end that the tabs need to be bent strait so it can be turned. Other wise use a big ass adjustable wrench on the base and some effort.

why not the oustide?

smurf blue follow piratetips tip in the search for answers...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=50 on the pinout description, middle column, 5th one from the top. You'll have to find it on your year specfic ecu though, dont know the pre-89's layout.

176-212 degrees. any more or less and the ecu is taking action (pulling timing, increasing A/F mixture). That said i have never seen over 190 degrees. thats with a 192 thermo (might be opening early) and a working fan shroud. usually sits right at 180-185 depending on driving conditions...

where is the wideband sensor located? are there any leaks up stream of it?

^^ add in the dyno time to get a drivable tune (and tuner) on and you can easily double that megasquirt price!

closed loop is out of your control. You can either max out the ecu's control on the fuel trims or work with them by pleasing Vf's. Part throttle operation is closed loop unless its above a certain rpm or the tps is above a certain %.

what fuel upgrades and tunning upgrades are going to accompany this 550whp leap?

electronics are the same, wont change a thing Next time stick around for the dyno run. Not a chance in hell id drop my car off and leave it for some one to run it hard on a dyno. If they give you a reason why they cant do it now, or want you to leave it find another shop. If something...

just swap the electronics, not the casing!

^ its AFM, and no,nothing over the counter will clean it. You can clean the plaistc leg that comes out of it but do NOT get any cleaner into the small holes at the base of the leg.

change all fluids, plugs, replace any seals that are leaking/blown, basically make sure everything is running like it was when it left the dealership 20 yrs ago ;)

swap out the afm or check the ks signal. if you have a safc that will work. what does it read at idle? what happens when its reved up? this an auto?

af ratios?