Search results

I cant get it over 200 degrees . Ill hold off and observe it more as the weather gets hotter. Pushed to the limits may not be the correct term, adding a load to the system that i was not used to seeing is more like it.

Fan shroud, fan clutch both check out. Thermo stat is new. FLuidyne rad etc... no leaks cools perfectly except when left idling for long periods now that its getting hotter. No ac = maybe 190d temps. The heat load from the condenser is whats pushing it to the limit with the lack of air...

awesome, thats what i needed. thanks guys. side note: is it going to improve cooling at idle or is it more for highway speeds?

hate to start a thread for this but i can not find any pics of an undertray on an mkIII car to save my life. Does it cover all the way to the front lip? Up to just the IC or what? And how far behind the radiator does it go? Mine never had it and its a bit warm for my liking at idle and...

what is your setup? fuel/tuning/turbo?

go to autozone, open till 10 usually, and rent the tool. You have to buy the fluid though ($7).

stock pistons will work just fine for your power goals. Im on the stock bottom end with my set up and right now its dd with no issues or failures

cool, thank you jj!

How can you know that it is heatsoak that is affecting the H/L pressures? and not an overfill issue? Should the pressures sit stable at idle? I have a huge floor fan i can stick in front of it but that seems like cheating to get accurate readings. 95 degree ambient measured at 2" in front of...

this is getting redundant!

learning is the other half then ;) cam profiles are in the tsrm, along with anything else on the motor and it will display any differences that are ge or gte specific on parts like you are asking about

aeromotive does sell a rebuild kit if you call it that. The diaphragm in the regulator can be replaced. Other then that you'd have to physically damage the housing or fittings to trash it... I suggest some teflon tape on the threads of the adjustment screw, it dosnt seal air tight and with vac...

agreed. We all have to learn but learn first, wrench second

what type of timing were you pushing in boost?

and you measured the end tanks at their widest points on the DM one... not the core itself (end tanks tapper as well, that taken into account?)

sorry i ment mainly the tuners and electronics of what you are using... looks like a safc with some sort of piggy back timing adjustment?

he cracked! ;) good info to understand from a different point of view. Is it safe to say the added timing would be to make up for the altitude power drop?

looks horrible on the motor. never seen it from under the hood. Can you lay out your setup? looks like a monster and a LOT of fun :D buddy has an evox that will hold 5500 rpms or something it that range to dump the clutch at. he claims its a true two step although im not sure. stock launch...

might need a spec of two ;), maybe a before/after dyno as well. If they wont sell to an individual, passssss

^ would you say your scope is a better option once its used correctly and the data given is correctly interpreted? I want something more in depth then the multimeter. A scope could be alot more versatile for future use on other cars. Higher initial cost but the price for perfection is often...