you could start at the tsrm under the EFI section. It has a detailed list of what to check under certain circumstances...
bogging on deceleration is normal (no fuel etc...) You really have a LOT more that needs to given and tested before asking what is wrong here.
ive witnessed that a few times myself. Light for the turn only lanes turns green and somebody in the strait lane goes. Nasty mess at 5 am.
if she is agreeing the is no need for a lawyer. If she argues you'll end up with a 30/70 settlement or something like that
an afpr should be your next mod if you have more lined up. You need SOME control over whats going on (even if its basic). Check your vf's. What are your WOT af ratios? If its remotely close to mine your in the mid 9's af ratio wise at wot with stock fuel pressure settings.
^ the resistance of the wires is why you buy "better" ones. Test yours out first. And a bit of searching would have answered everything you've asked for future reference.
I run coppers gapped to .028 (NGKBCRE7's IIRC). I change them every six months. I take that as a good time for a...
from your previous post in other threads i think it is a vac leak. hook it up to a smoke machine and find out.
Vf readings indicate open loop or overly rich condition... are you using PTT?
mine just had shitty engagement and "rough" pedal feel and travel. The easy give away is the fluid leak. Mine never has leaked enough to be noticed in the res. Just enough to wet the clutch pedal push rod and was clearly visible.
It should be said that its a good way to heat the hell out of the tranny fluid if done for to long. Use common sense when doing this (i know jdub knows better, for those that dont...)
^ Masters on its way out. Just replaced mine last night. Possibly the easiest thing ive done on this car besides pull the afm off
If you buy aftermarket get one that has a life time warranty like orilleys does.
soo many jdm blocks are being pictured as the original non squirter, non ribbed design. It will be nice when the "newer" blocks start making it to our shores for rebuilds...
^ no that has nothing to do with a BOV or bypass valve. Seriously guys do some research before changing what the car was designed to do. Sure it will survive or operate FINE, but at least understand what it is your affecting and why its being affected.
Anything mario puzo. A few of the books had me questioning my liking for his writing but they always leave me wanting another chapter at the end.
Right now im half way through 'Fools Dies'.
On a serious note Dave Ramsey is my favorite. Easy to read and understand and provides some awesome...
search adjusters posts on the bypass valve. It serves a purpose. I ran a vented for a few days and will gladly keep my baileys recirculated valve ($$$) for the low end throttle response...
valve cover vents = blow by. unless he put smaller lines on the vents to TB and pre turbo port... the motor is pushing the oil into the lines. My 98,000 mile bottom end leaves the pcv lines bone dry until i crank the boost up to 15psi or more... (just for perspective)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.