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I just replaced my upper radiator hose a month ago because the worm gear put a nice slit in it that over time caused a leak.

yes bad idea. it will cool better at idle depending on the e fan but thats about it. I would use something oem. And the wiring is CRITICAL. Think what your putting on the line here over a $20 difference. And anything that i would consider worthy of replacing the stock clutch fan is going to...

does the barb/water passage come out of the head or block on the #2 cylinder?

i would think doward hit the nail on the head...

my fidanza fw, rps pp (same as yours) and 6 puck talks to me a bit. any chance its just normal noises or is this DEFIANTLY new? mine HATES to be slipped, R is a bitch, and creeping up a lift is just plain stupid hard... makes some eyebrow raising noises when i slip it for to long or get it...

^ exactly

do you notice a rather alarming vibration when reved in neutral with the clutch out?

This isnt a tech question. And a new part is going to come from the dealership 90% of the time.

wth i thought these turbos were the latest and greatest compared to the sp series?! you said the manifold had residue... the exhaust manifold?

You know a used working afm is in the $50 dollar range...

for the record... these videos have sealed my mkiii's fate. 2jz goes in after school is done. The motor is just pure sex with the potential available on a stock ecu with a piggy back... (didnt help i just drove a local guys 700 hp mkiv either ;) )

dont get down man, happened to my old man. Fully loaded box truck lost BOTH rear tires on one side. Lug nuts snapped, bent the hub/axle and nearly tipped the truck over. discount tire over tq'd the lugnuts and a few snapped which loaded up the others and those let go as well. this is why...

id lean towards wiring then, when mine failed (oiled air filter) i got crazy readings that caused stalls when putting the clutch in under any driving circumstancs. Rain/humidity made it worse on mine to the point i had to unplug it to get home... If it clears up with the new afm cool, i have...

JIS motors, they are local to me and my back up plan for the time being. havent had to use them personally though..

so is the mkiiii

the tsrm only specs how to test the temperature sensor. afm should read 14-25 hz on a warm idle and should increase with rpms rather significantly.... hate to say search but dig through my old threads i posted in. I (copied) layed out how to test the actual AFM signal per jj.... edit...

10-11 sounds like fail safe mode...but more info is needed to nail it down...

^ yes yes, valves may take a bit longer then 500 miles though... hook some gauges up, your ass dyno is worthless in diagnostics. (sometimes mine feels superb, other times it feels the mcflurry from mcD's) One feeling/smeel/taste to one person is totally different to the next...

^ if your stock gauge is moving at all, your up over 220 degrees. My stock gauge wont budge from 170-200 degrees.

bring it down here where it actually gets hot with some humidity and well see how it does in 20 minutes of rush hour traffic ;)