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where are you getting your readings from and with what gauge? (stock, after market, electrical?)

I was under the impression it was pressed in so be DAMN careful HAMMERING it out...

i have a source for mt90 and most redline fluids at nearly cost locally.... "trackdogracing.com" $40 cash and i had 4 qts of MT90.... they are miata guys but cool as hell... i HIGHLY recommend you add gear oil in the diff and add your own LSD additive.... You might be surprised at how...

you mean that sleeve thats about an inch or two long? shouldnt your "new" block have that in it?

Redline MT90 in the r154 and ford 80w-90 with their additive(lsd) in the rear. I used generic 80w-90 in the trans for a few hundred miles for a "flush", after 50 miles or so on the mt90 ive notice a HUGE difference!!

personally i think your mechanic is 7m dumb... 2nd thread about your oil psi based on your "mechanic"... google "tsrm" and read the lubrication section...

what oil psi levels are you getting? how does it "look" hot? how about some measurements!!

cool then we need to finally meet up. I need a week or two to get my speed density setup in and tuned though. You REALLY need to get something that can control timing man, i about shit myself when i saw 22 degrees advance on pump at 18psi with the safc...

G-05 here... looks like pee :). Doesnt have the usual sweet smell either... smells a bit different... super stants are the napa premium thermos fyi

check the splice in for the rpm signal if you used IGf, when i first installed the Safc, the stupid clip cut the wire in half! (lesson learned, no vampire clips...)

hook a catch can into the stock pcv system before the turbo. Personally id put the MAF where the stock AFM is so the catch can/pcv is behind it.

solder what? the cps to the harness?

Looking good man!

Adding fuel with the safc is going to lower fuel cut. Running lean on 550's with a ct26? something doesnt sound right, is your fuel pressure rising with boost?

All from fresh green coolant? that seems a bit excessive for a few days... if they didnt use the coolant you supplied, maybe they didnt use your pump.

download the manual from their website. They also have a decent forum for their products too. Check it out, a bit of searching should answer all your questions in that regard

Very good way to blow the seals. Removing the valve covers and cleaning the baffles would be a better option. where is this check valve on the 7m? have you seen it? Compression test should be above 128psi with no more then 14psi difference between any of the cylinders. 142psi or above is...

440's are stockers on 7m's. This is an apples to oranges comparison. Using specifics from one motor that made XXX power, doesnt mean it will work for another. 440ccs are upgrades on the 1j, kind of like 550cc's are upgrades on the 7m ;)

the afpr should have a port for the fuel pres. gauge, put the sensor in there... it needs to be BEFORE the FPR to get an accurate reading

hows the tps? adjusted correctly? When i had my dashpot "over" adjusted it would allow the idle contact but not right away. Sometimes not at all. Can you check these to rule them out? Mine would stay in open loop (per Vf's 0V) and after a few seconds it would revert to normal idle control...