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fair enough... you have had motors torn apart because of piston slap an bore wear?

You really think because its forged it wont last as long? I think its in the build and the builder.. All pistons have SOME amount of slap on start up... I personally have not built any forged motors but have had three built for me. All forged, all different trucks, all different setups and...

^ cant get any better then those pics right there! here are a few from when i had to retime the cams from other work... Make sure to use a chopstick or something in the #1 sparkplug hole to verify TDC and that the harmonic dampener is at 0...

Come on, thats a bit of stretch! Youd have to get lucky to hit the frequency the knock sensors are looking for with piston slap. Not to mention if it doesnt go away once warmed up... somebody built it to loose. A properly rebuilt motor should last just as long as stock, how does stronger...

or bearing wear

fluidyne... works great!

mmmm 2jz goodness... My swap will happen in a year or so.. I DD mine and honsetly besides my own screw ups, i have yet to break/destroy anything... Just got the maft-pro in so getting the tune ironed out is going to take some time but other wise the car has been quite reliable! Its all in...

ya dont leave that open! There is a fitting on the pan that the line attaches to, remove it and plug it. Before you start it, make everything is flowing in the correct direction... Where did you put the cooler at?

^my thoughts as well... run a tank of 116 when you know your heading to the track... why are you chasing those additional 4 psi? theoretically you could loose some power if your not tuning for the higher octane... (if it were my car id still run it to be safe...)

a truck diff would be easy as hell, take the cover off and have at it!

kerosen in the lsd (took idea from mod. on here) and spin the wheels a bit on jack stands. Drain and fill with your choice gear oil For the trans i did a drain and fill with some cheap oil from wally world. After about 500 miles I drained that and put in the redline mt-90.

Yes it is easy to use! I loved it when i had the safc in... It took the guess work out of the tuning! +++ feedback for your work with excel here as well!!

lets see from memory.... # of gallons of 94 octane * 94 = X # of gallons of c16 octane * 116 (octane rating) = Y (X+Y)/ Gas tank size (18.5)= octane level in the tank 50/50 with c16 should net you 105 octane if c16 is 116 do they rate pump gas the same up there?

ferd 80w-90 with their LSD additive works great! The LSD additive STINKS! my car smelt like it for few days from leaving the UNopened bottle in the rear over night! Ive smelt some gear oil that was rank but this stuff takes the cake!!

^ its AFM and with it unplugged you should still be able to drive "normally" until 3000rpms and no boost. Now a bad one that is plugged IN will cause some interesting driving conditions..

yea the codes ;)

I understand that your saying it indicates open/closed loop as well. However it IS in closed loop.

You can adjust idle pretty easily with the safc (in regards to pleasing the vf's) but because its base on rpm and not load it gets hairy trying to adjust in closed loop above that. You will "chase your own tail" using the safc in closed loop... I was giving an example. To affect A/F ratios...

I think your referring to the lean condtion with boost building in the 25-3500 rpm range right? If so then yes you'd have to max out the fuel trim (VF) so the ecu had no more room to pull or add fuel. Youd have to peg 0.00V or 5.00V in that range. Doward wrote a tutorial on how he did...

ill have mine setup in a week or two if you want another 7m log to compare to. LMK?