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How does your driving style necessitate 10krpms? and why?

^check into jdubs oil section, he has layed it out quite well.

what issues?

Any body know the tq specs for the bolts holding the compressor housing to the center cartridge? This is on an sp61gt, but id imagine any aftermarket turbo would be similar (at least any garrett cold side). I want to clock it a bit differently but want to make sure it goes back on tightly...

Good read thats worth the time.

WOW, thats a didferent way to kill it! Did it leak out the oil or what killed it exactly? 222jjjzzz time:biglaugh:...

no, bspt is not a standard size hardware stores will carry. I had to go to a large plumbing supply warehouse for mine.

seriously? use the stocker for trends, mine read similar to yours when i finally pulled it out. Actual psi was in the 50's though..

That afpr is really simple to take apart and check the diaphram. What fuel pump is this on? Do a deadhead test and see what psi the pump can provide.

^still do another comp. test. Using the results from a test that was perfromed before an issue showed up is not going to help.

^ this, which considering the oil in the coolant (and most likely coolant in the oil) makes it a real possibility in the near future.

timing control is simple to setup, but you have to get a timing gun to verify it at idle, then at higher rpm ranges.

maft pro has basic timing additions and subtractions... Stock ecu has more then enough timing up top to justify methanol with higher boost alone imho! (17-22* after 5500 rpms)

^A nip slip "ain't gona" cut it... full exposure or ban..

what about it? pull up the manufactor link and add some info...

^ LMAO, get him! Get it running, big meet next month in houston!

looks good ken! Not happy about that hose... it will live at 190*+ 95% of its life. I had something similar when i did my setup and Jetjock stepped in to nudge me in the right direction... aeroquip or bust dude (yes there are others that will handle the temp but at similar costs to...

fluidyne part numbers show the rows in the first #. FHP30 is 3 rows, FHP20 is 2, FHP11 is 1 row. Now i haven't bothered to call the manufactures but considering this is DIRECTLY from their website, I'm inclined to consider it accurate over other vendors..

to much bs out there to get a definite answer... Koyo part number Rxxx denotes the 53mm core. If its a multi-pass radiator there should be an N on the end of the part number... look http://www.koyoradracing.com/about/technology.asp and now the one for our...

only koyo i know of is a 53mm R core, Doesnt state the multipass N at the end of the prodcut code either... so im not sure if its 2 row.