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get on fullthrottletechdotcom. Talk to turbobob. since your not converting to a different air flow meter system it should be easy enough in AFC mode. Timing control is another thing to consider given your HP goals. Ir works for the 7m ecu but i dont know how the 1j ecu handles that side of...

Subframe spacers seem to be the end all cure for the "float". (add that to your list) Still good to replace the bushings after 20 years imho.

...and start out with NO friction modifier. Do a few figure eights in a parking lot, if its clunking and grabbing, add 1/2 ounce at a time until its operating smoothly.

I would advise to always have the head decked or at the very least have a machine shop check the flatness. Even if using a composite. The framing square you have from home depot isnt quite going to cut it! You can add one to your tool set for a cool $100. Look up FORD and search some tsb's...

I personally wouldnt worry about the missfire until i knew a rod wasnt going to detach itself soon.

lol, not quite. I had a seeping brake bleeder that caused the rear caliper to become totally inoperative. Pedal feel slowly softened and took a double pump to get the stopping power needed.

resolution?

check correct connection of IN's and OUT's on the oil cooler setup.. ALL of them. Make sure the flow direction is correct.

Im curious what most find after 20K+ mile tear downs.. Do studs and bolts constantly work loose over the years of heat cycling?

been up forever and a day. Few months back they posted it needed a new bottom end..

the coolant shouldn't "boil" out of the radiator neck. Coolant will slowly rise as the temp increases but there shouldn't be anything exciting going on.

Why would the OEM hg only last a while? I wouldnt even consider a MHG with out redoing the block and head surface. If your tune/supporting mods (or lack of) killed an OEM hg at say 400whp and you run the same setup with a MHG, you will still have problems down the road. A MHG or forged...

drop the power steering belt and and you can slide the pump down enough to get a wrench along the block. From there its 1/4 turn at a time getting the sender off.

Its a glitch in the calculations for the timing monitor. Nothing to do with actual timing or problem on the car. Something changed on yours ken, your previous timing curve looked terrible.. not to mention the breaking up you talked about. Glitches aside, what ive seen with the maft pro...

If you'd stop with the titanium coatings and gold retainers, I'm sure it would be a bit cheaper. :icon_razz

you dont want to eliminate fuel cut. tune rich with the afpr and then pull enough fuel out with the maft pro to stay under boost cut. l tune so that fuel cut is 2-3 psi above my "limit".

search crisp, he did a pictorial write up after JJ shared the tip Open the case, there is a screw right under the wires where they enter, ground this screw to the battery negative.

^any improvements on rattles and such when shutting door? What did you "rebuild"?

just keep in mind that the weak point was not the hg per say, it was the material it was made out of + the TQ specs used. Kind of a system weakness all around. I guess i should ad the biggest weak link as well, up keep from the owner.

I dont think a good quality composite hg is the limiting factor. The tune is. A metal one will give you more leg room if your not on top of air/fuel/timing/boost. Where do these HP to HG numbers come from? Last year it was 350whp, the year before that 300whp.. Is there any data to back...