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the sp61 has been a solid turbo for DD use for me as well. Maft-pro has worked great too. If i were to redo my turbo setup, I'd look heavily into a tubular mani with a true t4 turbo.

it should turn smoothly dry, hope it turns out good!:bigthumb:

AEM WB with 2+ years of DD on pump gas= 0 issues to date. If the ecu is still in control of cruise/idle/part throttle, it should be obvious when the sensor starts to age.

How was this tuned? steady state or street?

thrust collar and retainer wear. $15 each from Toyota.

Id get a thermo switch. You'll get to 210 quick with out air flow in the heat + AC usage. Make sure theres a fuse between he battery and relay, wire size needs to be considered as well as current draw. Its a complete system and should be treated as such.

I did my tie rods in the parking lot at work 2 years back. Really easy IMHO compared to some cars that push the rack behind the motor...

I used what ever oreilly auto (sp?) sells for the fronts. My issue was not the caliper itself rather the sleeve on the caliper that the pin slides into. Zero issues but i only replaced the fronts. some wilwoods are in the plans for the future after my current motor build.

looks like a 1/8npt, mine has a brass plug in it like the ones you find at homedepot, courtesy of the PO

few years old but havent seen any that quite touch these posts... http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75 89= 105,000 miles. Built Motor= 0 miles

rotella is 15cst at 100*c and 90 cst at 40*c. GC is 12 cst at 100*c and roughly low 60's cst at 40*c. most 5w-30's are in the 10-11cst at 100*c range.. Given the tight clearances of a healthy 7m, I'm more inclined to stick with thinner oils. You should be selecting a quality oil using your...

NICE! glad to hear its back up and running!

A cordless 90* drill with a short shank bit worked perfectly for me. Use a socket extension next to the hole to get an idea of how straight your drill is. You will most likely have to open up the lower exhaust manifold bolt holes and gasket holes as getting them all straight and true is near...

might consider a set of coated bearings for an extra buffer for "stupid".

out of curiosity, whats your break in plan?

or drill another set of holes on the rad. mounts so it pulls the radiator closer.

ya, spend your money on the valve train first. Quite a few posts proving a good chunk of power is in the head work. Not to mention the street manors your can gain as well.. other wise I'm fond of jeff tamilus (sp?) JT series turbos. Good bang for your buck and hes a great guy to work with.

I know i have in the past with out a lot of response other then to ship it out. Most guys that have had the missfortune of trying several shops that i know of, dont care for the forums. Being actively involved with your local supra community will be the biggest help. shipping to rich is NOT...

cool, 9:1 it is.