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good news so far, the shop is going to cover the repair. Bad news is nothing obvious. Rod bearings look good with no wear but the mains had some wear on the middle of the bearing on the bottom shell. They are going through every aspect of the motor at this point to get a big picture of what...

Motors back out with a date at the shop on Thursday. The builder is staying late to tear it down while I'm present. Cant ask for much more at this point until we can see what happened and assign the blame. Received what I feel is the most sound advice... find the problem, assign the...

so the "3" is the casting number? I dont see anything else easily.

^ yea i wouldnt bother assembly until I had worked out all the small details on what was done. Those valve look just like mine with 100K on them and a few passes through the "dish washer" style hydro jet cleaner the shop used.. There should be no need for the shop to lie, I would at least get...

I wouldnt bother with used oem pistons. If the rebuild is for a very mild power level run the NPR's. Other wise pony up for some forged pistons. With stock pistons, any machine work on the bores will leave the sidewall gap larger then desired with pistons that dont expand enough to fill it..

same blocks, the gte one will have the oil squiter holes drilled though. Not sure on turbo drain. I'd reuse what you have if its in decent condition.

^ Either that or go back to R12. isn't mineral oil for r12 anyway The correct oil is needed. The way the system oils it self depends on it!! Your High side PSI looks high but I dont have the r12-r134 psi conversion stuff anymore. I know the pressure will be higher with r134 just cant recall...

were the plugs pulled on the second go round of cranking and looking for psi?

appearance is not how you judge surface RA. You will almost always see tool marks unless some sort of polish or lapping has been done.

autozone will have the right adapter and tester. You may get a funny look. last time I went through this the guy was dumb struck that I wanted 3-4 brought out. 2 wouldn't hold pressure, stupid jack ass threw them back in the box and stuck them on the shelf.. he was the manager as well! I HATE...

I always bring my radiator pressure tester with the adapter and test the caps before I walk out of the store. Saved me a trip or two more then once before! if the store has a rental tool program, use theirs while your there.

ken your running 67 psi of fuel pressure at 15psi of boost. If the charts I have for the walbros are worth the paper they are printed on, your not to far away from maxing the pumps psi/flow. At 28psi vac on, youd be looking at 53psi of fuel pressure at 15psi of boost.

enhanced tps will leave a stored code 41 (tps code) since the tccs boots faster then the m-pro. I didnt even realize i had the code until I checked them before tear down! Didnt notice anything when driving but loved the fact that I had full contorl over af ratios as soon as I went into...

never had the evap coil sensor kick off the condenser in 105*ambient at idle. Vent temps always stuck to low 50's high 40's until I started moving again . The fan helped the hi/low pressures but it still heat soaked just a tad bit slower. I went through a good bit of work making that extra...

its not going to be easy to make drastic improvements at idle. I HAD an extra pusher on the cond. Waste of time and saw no temp drops at the center vent.

I understand. There shouldn't have been any media blasting done, I didn't pay for any! Just machine work , sizing and assembly.

^ what about the rings? rods where .0012" on the bearings. Yes, brand new squirter's from toyo. Dont know if they cleaned the crank. They polished/cut it to fit the clevite bearings.. They did finale assembly on the bottom end. I picked up the assembled short block ready to run. IIRC...

my built motor has rod knock after 20 minutes and 2 miles of run time.. primed oil system and verified via oil pressure gauge and turbo oil feed. Had great oil pressure on initial start up, still do just sluggish compared to rpms. generic 5w-30 was used with new filter that was filled before...

my pump holds pressure just fine, its the aeromotvie fpr that doesn't hold pressure. pinch the return line while jumping the fuel pump in the diagnostic box with the key on/motor off. Remove the jumper. Fuel pressure should remain unless its leaking at the injectors, pump, or externally.

not going to be pushing a cometic to fail at these power levels either. All in the tune at this point. whats your deck height and head volume? what pistons? you should also get the quench area figured out as well.. picking a 2mm just because is not advised