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just finished my build with these pistons at 0.00375. No cold start rattle, (only 2 miles on it :D and its 95* out)

motor is not the limiting factor, maintence and tune is. no you can not up the boost to make up for a rich condition, how would this even work with a 1:1 rising rate fpr? leave your tune alone or pay to play.

if your pulling 20% and af ratios are stil rich, lower fuel pressure by 2%, zero out the safc settings and start over. the afm doesnt read psi either, the air volume is mearsured in HZ. So 18 psi may very well be possible on any trim ct26. I couldnt get past 15-16psi on my sp61gt (bigger...

^ your safc is acting like a fuel cut defender. fuel cut has nothing to do with fuel or af ratios. Its a limit on the AFM's hz output the ecu will allow.

Whats your fuel pressure with the diag. box jumpered with the car off?

thats not right, you should see a 10psi increase from removing the vac line to afpr. Fix the leaks an I bet it would idle properly or at least in the tcccs range of control. check vf as well. Betting its pegged 5V. the TB size adjust the response fuel multiplier. larger TB = Larger...

Id take a big single pump over duals. If one of the duals die, you wont know it until its to late. If the single dies, your car shuts off. A surge tank with an inline Bosch would work as well.

A big improvement on all things electrical was taking some old advice JJ does. Voltage drop test everything you can get to. I'll admit I didn't go as far as he did with a head light and all but the power and grounds definitely had room for improvement. Got rid of the dimming head lights when...

niether is mine, havent seen one cracked before to be honest.

I wouldnt bother with ptt, the tccs obviously has other fail safe measure to do what it feels is needed. Try it though and see if your set on it. Just dont weld the o2 sensor fitting shut. I think once 3pxxxx gets the tccs daughter boards up and working, we will be able to force open loop...

if only we could get the pro to produce a timing monitor curve like that! Your timing curve looks like mine, decrease to 5000rpms or so and a sharp increase after 5700. From what I've gathered, the stock timing curve is a futile attempt to keep top end power alive as the cams and stock ct-26...

call rich at SIP, when I was in the "deciding on the builder stage" i was going to buy a block from him and have him build it. He is in Ohio but shipping a bare block and crank can be done through regular ground..

WOW! Car looks amazing man!

ken I had a brain fart about your timing contorl not working. Of course with out a dial back or digi timng gun we cant be 100% but ... When tuning, every motor has a MBT value for every point on the map fuel/timing. The goal is simple, get to MBT with out detonating on the current setup/fuel...

never seen it on a supra. What i have seen (and REALLY like) is using megasquirt in the same manor. It intercepts the ecu's injector signal and timing signal and sends out what you program... Have to figure out a way around fuel cut still. But at this point a FCD would actually work and work...

decent read but the normal to much quench is bad, to little is bad etc..no details. My head and pistons have all been cc'ed and piston potrusion is known and accurate. No point in adding this and subtracting that when you have accurate measurements. I'd expect a lot guys to go this route...

We'll I'm looking at about .048" or 1.2mm of quench with a static compression ratio of 8.7:1 or right around there (dont have my notes in front of me). This is with a 1.6mm HG. Shop said stock is in the .045-.050" range. Any body have any input as to how helpful say .040" of quench would be...

^ somewhat why i was asking, The shop is fly cutting the tops of the pistons to get the deck height all the same and to cut down on the size of the gasket being used. I cant remember what they said stock squish was though. Ya I'm very curious to know where the na-t guys fall as well.. Not...

never saw over 200*F coolant temps even with a BHG in 100*F ambient stop and go traffic with ac on.

Last bit of the build. It seems most have posted .8-1mm on the 7m. guys with 2jz's say 1.5mm is optimal for them. Who has played with it and how did it re act? anyone know stock? anyone know "optimal" ?