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good luck cleaning the threads completly with the head on. Its enough work as is with the head off.

blocks warped. MEASUREMENTS IN POST # 36 Rich at SIP will be building the "new" motor. Still deciding on pistons for 5-600hp (future target) shame too, this is the new gen block with extra ribs! Never realized how thin .002 is!

come on now, your trying to destroy it arent you?

^ i'm not into re inventing things at this stage in my life. seeing as how its worked for you I'll go with the 5 ftlbs below final value. I know we are beating the details to pieces here but it helps weekend warriors like me sleep easy at night!

get a FPR, raise fuel pressure and pull more out up top. Fuel cut raised "naturally"

^ dont go to the final tq until the 5th burnishing. Thats why i posted 60ft lbs, then step it up to 70-75 on the 5th cycle of that bolt. And for any body reading this, the tq values are hypothetical. Just trying to grasp the process fully :)

Is there a risk of compromising the composite gasket in doing this? Tq all to say 60 ftlbs? back all of them off 1/2 turn in the loosening sequence? then re peat the tightening sequence to 60 fltbs? Or do them one bolt at a time (tq, loosen, tq loosen etc..) I try to be as direct as possible...

heads at another shop, they said its flat. When i get it back I'll take some measurements of my own. Waiting on straight edge (had to order one). The shop said they have seen composite gaskets that have sat for to long and failed to seal. Any input? My gasket was not tacky or sticky like...

the only way i have seen a "secondary" map sensor work with the safc's is when its used to feed a signal to the safc ONLY.

good point with the studs, I'll double check them. Pre assembly, and on assembly every one of them screwed in smoothly ( a LOT of time was spent cleaning the holes). Im betting warped block. 5 out of 6 cylinders where leaking in the same spot on the exhaust side.. Maybe I'll get "lucky" and...

holes where cleaned with a thread restorer, vacced, brakekleened and countless amounts of paper towels twisted in and out. I felt confident they were spotless and no visible crude was seen. My fisrt thought, but you can still see the rust lines from the water running down the block...

toyota. can anybody confirm this? Ran great. never overheated, just bubbles in the res. when running. Started using a little coolant for 2-3 days before i tore it down. nothing extreme I know, if i can get the 7m running, i'll post pone the swap.. 1j is an option. full swap is in...

started from the inside and worked out (followed the tsrm) and went 25,50,75. Trying to locate a straight edge locally as we speak.

yea all the studs were tight. I did a re tq before pulling it for grins. Everything was at 75-76ftlbs. noticed there was a gaseket shapped layer of oil film on the head, not what i expected. I didnt do much to clean the camshaft area. Just shop vacced it and towled all the oil off. maybe...

no just basic prep work. Main reason i stuck with the oem composite. I was hoping to prolong pulling the block until i could do the full build or swap. previous owner had it machined though (or at least lapped). Still has a mirror shine on it.

UPDATE PAGE 4 Had bad would the block need to be warped to leak water between the head and block? Fresh Toyota HG tqed to 75 ftlbs and it slowly leaks out. I can watch it bead up and trickle down the side on the exhaust on 1,2,5&6 and on the intake of 1. Head was decked. I didn't have a...

I havent seen over 198- 200* this year (ac on full, 100* ambient, stop and go traffic for 20-30 minutes) and im currently replacing a leaking MHG. Temp is not the only sign. My stock temp gauge never moves from that tick below half way position...

Napa sells an extreme pressure assembly lube with moly-graphite. This is what i used. 85 ft lbs came from arp. It would appear arp has changed their tq value yet again as that is what they told me to use for studs with lube.

Hey i have to dig a little bit! To much "I do this, we do that, you should do this" info out there which makes a definate answer hard to come by.

you did, with the widely accepted tq them down and do a re tq after 5 heat cycles. Its my understanding that pre loading the studs/bolts makes this unnecessary. I'll still check the tq after a few heat cycles, but if theres any advantage I can give the components on reassembly I'll take it...