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I always wondered if you could just relocate the meter to somewhere within the IC piping after the BOV. I have a lex AFM, wouldn't that just solve the problem all together?

Well as you know its a tuff area, so i couldn't see exactly. When i boost leak tested the system i felt the air escaping from the holes in the bottom and/or around the crimp. Thats just a best guess though. My idle is around 1K and acceleration stutters A LOT seemingly like a misfire, most...

did you boost test it with the engine off so you could actually listen for leaks?

If your friend is a mechanic, then use him. He should beable to get a big time discount through his work at the shop.

^i wasn't sure if they had a feature for BOV valves or not. I don't know all that much about SAFCII, short of its basic functions.

^most of us know why our cars stall. Yes its better to recirculate. BUT, all i'm saying is its doable, my car is proof. It stalled everytime i hit boost even a little bit and let off the gas. In under 15minutes on a dyno and tuning with the SAFCII, problem solved.

Agreed, mine is not recirculated. HKS SSQV. At first it did all the time and it was frustrating, but after i got the car tuned it stopped stalling. FYI he did not adjust the BOV, only tuned the SAFCII and the stalling magically went away

Ask to take off teh intake and check the condition of the turbo compressor wheel, it will tell you one, if it needs to be replaced/rebuilt, two, how hard the car was driven, three if anything foreign has gotten into the engine to cause unseen damage.

My EGR leaks a lot. Causes me high idle and very choppy acceleration. You can't really repair as far as i know (let me know if you can). So my question is, if i got a replacement (used, new is too much$$) do the EGR's tend to leak when you start pushing the boost levels over 11PSI or do they...

I forgot that before i threw this out i snapped a couple picks: thats just damage to carpet, there are a few other spots on interior it did some damage too, but nothing really that obvious thankfully. Fucked the copper wiring for the defroster on the rear winsheild, im not sure if its...

yikes, no thanks

search and you will find tons and tons of info about this.

^agreed

^i'm only putting out 270WHP on all my mods, though with a good size leak in my EGR...enough to put it down to 7.7PSI at peak power when boost controller is set for ~11ish

don't know how safe the auto's are, engine will be fine as long as its in good shape. Youll need to change your HG probably or youll end up blowing it out eventually. Improvement will absolutely be noticeable. on average 10-15HP/lb of boost w/the ct-26

FYI: You can't tell with carb cleaner all your leaks, once your under boost who knows what kind of little leaks you may or may not have/develop.

you say no leaks...how do you know...did you pressure test it or just listen? You can listen all you want...you'll never find them all with the engine noise.

The TPS is rather sensitive, even if you think you got it just right, its probably wrong. You need a voltmeter to make sure its in the proper voltage range for idle and WOT

^feul cut is about 11PSI. you need a piggy back of some kind

lex AFM 550 combo, considerably more boost, intake, piggy back w/really good tune and maybe 300crank?