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No it wouldn't be too much. Yes it will decrease its life span...how much? i don't know, but running at 13 PSI doesn't mean it will run at 13PSI, could go 1-1.5PSI over or worse if you have any spike occuring. It will stilll last awhile but i still would recomend upgrade the compressor and it...

wow thats pretty sick

Yes there are direct bolt ons, No i don't remember what they're called. I suggest just upgrading the CT especially if youre going to run 13-14PSI. stock CT isn't very effecient above 14PSI even 13 to some degree simply because it heats up a lot. Also, the lifespan will be shortened much more at...

^good to know, just fab one up, its a very simple hose to do.

15 huh? you sound just like the kid on the other forum i belong, got a 400HP car, and very nice, i think it was a modified 'stang. We told him id be too much power, his response: no, i'll drive this thing very cautiously and responsibly i don't want anything bad to happen. It took him 1 week to...

Mine was well over 3K w/o forged rods/pistons

^planing on it. Just have some tests this week so i need to do that first. I'm going to cut up the EGR and use the ends as the temp block off pieces. My buddy down here at school luckily has a welder, worst comes to worst i epoxy something rigid to the end pieces i cut off the EGR.

^Air escapes in rather large amounts out the bottom of the EGR, throught the vent holes when i perform the boost test. Thanks for the pics

The reason i know its toast is b/c i did boost leak test. I found 4 lol which is why i could only hold 7.7PSI at my max power. Of course i found this after my dyno tuning at $150/hr; i assumed it was a bad turbo at the shop since it has almost 170K on it, i couldn't be more wrong as the turbo...

My EGR is shot, its causing me quite a few problems especially with acceleration. I was thinking about removing it but only temporarily so i don't want to remove things like charcaol canister and EGR cooler and such along with it. So my question is, what to do with this vacuum lines? And yes...

I have DRU 810A i believe...it works perfect no matter the brand and what your doing on the computer at the time of recording

^OR there could be a bug between his burner and the software, or his dvd burner just sucks...I have used just about every brand DVD +or-, whatever is cheapest at the store and never had problems, and if there were any it was the burning software buffering incorrectly causing skips in the disk...

Change brands DVD, stick with DVD+R....or get a new DVD burner and/or burner software

Gotcha, i thought they were normally S/C to earn teh cobra name.

its a chick car. end of story. reminds me of corky romano lol!@

If those are your mods and that was really a cobra you wouldnt stand a chance against him they have 390+hp/tq stock, he wasn't trying. Nice on the Prelude though, i hate those guys, they always think they're all that.

^thats what i'm leaning towards, i just need to make sure it just won't blow again. I'm also waiting on what Jetjock has to say as to whether its toast or not.

No leaks except EGR. Boost tested. TPS just replaced cause it was bad, i have SAFCII to monitor it. ISC is my next guess but first i want to fix EGR first as i know its bad and TSRM suggests high/poor idle caused by faulty EGR as well as acceleration problems which i also have. Edit: no codes

Didn't really look all that closely, just looked like there were a million pipes covering everything

All i know is i would hate to change the spark plugs on that tri-turbo