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i know that, but for my goals i was wondering what the better choice would be as id also have to get new manifold, DP, intake, and WG

Well first off i want to clarify i searched garrett t-67 and no results came up probably cause default search voids things like "t-67". Idon't know much about turbos just have a rough idea about how they work and such and the popular choices. No details really yet. But First i wanted to know...

I have a TSRM for '88 supra....says 650RPM idle. my idle is 1K-1.2K......sometimes .9K-1.1K

out of curiousity....WHAT IF, your idle never goes to 6-800 EXCEPT at warm up period? Like mine :) . and NO i do not have vacuum leaks and ISC checked ok per TSRM; it might be the valve behind the ISC that could be bad but would it be a big deal if idle wasn't low?

ya know, just before i bought my supra i saw them AT LEAST once a day....even mkiv's for about 2 weeks in my area. After that....one, for the rest of the summer and he was cruising on the other side of the road (about 2 months). Luckily i joined wvstreets.com when i got to school and joined...

i would edit my previous post but there constantly is an error: Tthrowing Stock cats you can gain some good power from but things like EGR are ultimately more beneficial. You can rid the charcoal can but then you have to setup a good, efficient, and SAFE system of venting the gas tank

uhm, why would you want to rid of ALL the emissions components? Asking how much power you can make safely from a stock headgasket is like asking someone to pick the number your thinking of from 1 to 1000000; there any many many factors most of which unseen. Most people can trhow 10PSI at a...

:wiggle: anxiously waiting to hear from our own turbo experts as well as yours...

agreed....im interested in hearing what the turbo pros have to say about this

well, typically not that low BUT you are right, he will hit FC before 10PSI

new point to consider.....spark plug wires. You say it happens when you drive it around, well, did you ever let it warm up to op temps and let the engine bay temps get high? Resistance dramatically changes with heat and will even more so affect performance and cause problems like this. My...

you can rent timing lights for like $5, more than likely this is your problem....your ear can be deceiving. If i just lightly move my CPS it simply jumps 5 degrees with a timing light, couldn't imagine what it would be if i did it by my ear.

you're clearly missing the point from how many other posts and countless other threads if you would've searched. 57 trim = power, reliability 60 trim = much less reliability, slightly more power

i don't get it...you're doing it all backwards. People always go turbo turbo turbo when in reality they need to go...'what do i need to do to support a bigger turbo?' :nono: Edit: the real kicker is, i have (for the most part) everything i need to support a larger turbo but still run on stock...

sorry man, didn't think it would effect it to the extent it did considering how easily and fast it cooled with it broken before. Either way, know of any other non-oem (i.e. not ugly) shrouds or efficient e-fans so i can put this issue to rest?

Shroud is broken, didn't think it would cause such a big change in temps. Fan clutch is definately good, it was "tested" almost everyday this past summer. I'm interested in your heat wrap though of the DP. I have to take mine off soon and i was wondering how you do that and what material you use...

Never seen my system then :icon_bigg . Temp unit is on the stock location. My temps are higher probably because the shroud broke off, didn't think it would effect it so much. Currently i'm looking for a new one that wont kill the look of my engine bay like the stockers do, or ill go e-fans but...

how can a clutch like this have a "stock feel"? My RPS clutch is waaay different and only handles 1/2 or less of what this clutch has to offer

:ttiwwp:

Edit: forget it, figured it out