Search results

there is a misunderstanding between us on this. I can set the crank TDC no problem...and that's what you described how to do in your posts. Im looking for markings on how to set the CAM gears to TDC since i dont have the cam covers anymore. I took the free offer btw obviously...i mean why...

Ha thanks. Kinda sucks though at the same time....its been ready for so long im just waiting for extra $$ right now to come in. I think the 57 trim will be fitting for me. My car has been nearly dead even from a dig through 3rd (i missed 4th lol) at about 11-12PSI with a buddies 2000 C5 corvette...

I understand what you're saying. I've done that method of find TDC for a long time now. The problem is the cams moved after the belt was off so it was no longer properly aligned done during the rebuild. What i'm trying to say is which is more reliable/accurate when setting the cams to TDC...

lol, awesome! THANKS! that thing is such an eye sore in my engine bay. I've since that picture cleaned it some and removed some of the rust but most still remains :3d_frown:

Plate will tell you where the cams should be when the crank is TDC much better than me just "eyeing" it

Well i am still a student keep in mind :icon_bigg TBO i don't know because i've never had one of those plates before so i can't visually see what they do. My only guess besides "fine tuning" the cams better than just eyeing them like me would be protecting the timing belt and prevent any...

Everything is on the correct cycle...just need to fine tune is all.

Too late, lol, runs fine...so far.....what are the big problems if i run it off a couple notches or so?

I did my timing last night the best i could. The plate behind the cam gears i no longer have, i bought the car without it. When I went to do timing i simply lined them as straight upwards as i could. There are 18 notches from before my exhaust cam line to right before my intake cam mark. I know...

Anybody take notice the shipping costs:aigo: :aigo: :aigo: ?!?!?!? RIDICULOUS! My Ct-26 is probably heavier and costs ten dollars to ship with insurance across a few states Edit: NVM, its shipping all the way from japan......but still, its already expensive as it is.

Cool thanks, just needed to confirm /end thread

i would suspect the cps

:1zhelp: Just that, i finally got the seal in but i don't want to push it too far and ruin it. Should it be flush with the block or have some of the seal still visible??

edit, finally got it in nvm

forget it, check new thread

Sorry if i don't know EVERY threshold number of the system. I figured it could handle a whopping 14/15lbs. So tell me all mighty one, how am i supposed to perform a proper boost test if air simply leaks out the PCV hose. After i plugged the hose even breifly i came across two or three other...

This motor is healthy, obviously this was a defective part or it woulnd't have happened after 5K miles.

anyone give me some instructions on replacing the main seal? there don't appear to be instructions or useful info in the TSRM. From what i'm gathering here: 1. Remove lower pulley cover 2. remove timing belt 3. remove crank pulley 4. remove timing belt gear....are there bolts here? if so...

Well, my question is then...how much roughly? and any useful suggestions when doing it?? I've never done it before on any car