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im editing it as i filter through the rebuild paperwork

rods were resized, checked for straightness, balanced, magnafluxed I don't show any clearance specs on the rebuild info, only weight specs I ran it on low oil once about 2 months ago, blew out my front main and didn't know it, noticed intermitten low to no oil pressure during acceleration...

rebuilt professionally crank work includes balancing, magnufluxing and micropolishing, no cutting

6+K miles on new engine and rod knock?? Now i've heard rod knock before from my brothers supra and his was waaaaay worse. I've heard the tapping before, i noticed it got louder as i changed the timing. Now i changed the timing last night to more of a stock setting compared to where its been...

car is knocking this morning.......after 6k miles?

I will try this tom and see what happens, but don't the readings from the TPS need to be between 0,1-1V closed and 4-5V WOT? Otherwise, will the ECU not give proper fuel amounts? I could be wrong and having an SAFCII may change results but im just going per TSRM specs....?

No worries, i know all about the effects of gravity and pressure....as i should as a senoir MAE student ;)

understood, but you still need to maintain proper voltage ranges so the computer knows where full throttle is or isn't, at least thats how i read the TSRM (page FI-34)

I've been dealing with a high idle for a loooong while now. Its now preventing me from properly timing the ignition so i really need to focus on it. CEL: 51 Read up on it. For awhile i didn't think it was my TPS since it was new and read proper voltage when i first installed it. So just...

Found a garage to work in. Conclusion: DON'T USE MERCRON V. Switched to dexron III and whine went away for the most part.

yes...there is a 190LPH walbro....dunno why you wouldn't just get 255 though for an extra few $$

Fair enough, but i just figured someone might have some input on the fluid differences, its not exactly easy to just go swap out the fluid at school, especially when its snowing and about 8* outside :aigo: sure did.

I relocated the resevoir finally over christmas break. I matched the hose size lines however wanted to give it a bit cleaner or an install so i used a few 90* elbows to move it over to where the engine bay fuse box is. It sprung a leak and i quickly as i could i took off the PS belt to prevent...

So i just got this potentially good idea for a new thread....i think its original i've never seen it before? Anyway, It went well in another forum im in but there is quite the variety of cars there so opinions are very (can't think of the word i want here) lets just say thinking outside of the...

man i can't waste to post here sober lol...its 633am..good god, no sleep since 822am (went to bed round 4)....im stupid but some of your making these 'suggestion's' are far more retarded lol edit: lol, aderol is the only thing keeping me up

completely lost at what you're getting at here....like i said, if you have a design the rest of it is on material properties

again, x2. I recently ran into this when i redid my timing, i started boosting at 1500RPM :aigo: barely stepping on the gas. I realized that later the cam gear had jumped a couple teeth....its all it takes.

refer to my post before.

x2, exactly what i was thinking when i read through first post, those wires get people all the time

^it would work depending on material and how its cast or if its machined, how the original material is made. material properties is everything if you have a targeted design set