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Hey i just had a test on this stuff today, a bit more in depth though of course :biglaugh: . It was terrible lol. 50 min tests are waaaaaay too short of a time period. Past two class test averages were in the 50's, i'd expect this one to be in the 40's as the majority of the class was still...

now now, don't jump to conclusions. Not one person has come up with numbers yet. While THEORETICALLY it may not do much......those of us that actually do design and build know how far theory really goes....

If someone has a force gauge and one of the strut bars, go make use of the two, rig up something and drive around, see what kind of numbers (if any) are present

i would like to see some numbers with drawings proving these "myths" true or false. Until then i remain neutral.

yes, its a fail safe if your FPR gives out on you. If you're stock keep it, you have no good reason to lose it

Honestly, i would just get another torque wrench and try again. I highly doubt the torque wrench you boke was in good shape and more than likely failed from wear/manufacture imperfection or some fracture from a previous use. A typical 1/2" drive handles upwards of 500ftlbs of torque and that's...

^well man we just have to cover all the basics. As long as everything is mechanically sound it will really only be in a few places, CPS, ECU, Ignitor, AFM. AFM won't really cause problems like this that im aware of or ever heard of, usually if its bad it won't run at all or your AFR's would...

sure you spark plug wires are properly installed to the right cylander and corresponding coil pack? I would definately look there if the timing really is done correctly, other than that i'd look again into the CPS and ignitor

ooo come on now, it can't be worse then mine :biglaugh:

Actually Nick, i know exactly what thread you're talking about. Doward never said anything about this, actually MDC did, and made it very clear surge was the issue leading to failure of the 60-1 size trims.

that it is. a row of wires essentially. it better of stood up to a fire for a 134 dollar timing belt....damn@!

wrong, WBo2 are very sensitive to temperature and condensation (you only have to worry about temp in stock location). You need to replace it with stock and add a new bung. on a sidenote: there is no stock wb location.

^at least that was the original intent. they've merged a little bit but not much

one = destruction page one = question reguarding insurance claims

^+1

i'd check your stock 02 sensor. your WB might have a simulated NB signal you can use instead of the stocker, try it out, see what happens

^^correct

^^state farm

well i just got off the phone with them. They will be upgrading my insurance thanks to a receipt for the recent rebuild, however i don't know how much that will help out. The insurance agent will be coming Friday so we'll see what happens.

what tests did you perform?