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heh. your local shops suck if they don't have that restrictor....you could order one from atpturbo.com or something. your oil press doesn't go up any more because of the stock oil cooler setup- it's pressure based. once you reach the set pressure (40ish...), the valve opens to the oil cooler...

from all my SS line/fitting exp, the only lines/fittings i'll ever use are aeroquip. easier to assemble, better quality. not to mention the fuel issues w/earl's.... summitracing is the easiest place to get what you need- they always have it and depending on location you'll get it overnight...

for a stock car? there isn't an advantage. for a heavily modified car w/large lift/duration cams the advantage is not spitting shims out....

probably not. none of my pipes are rolled and i've had no problems past 30 psi....

depends on what connectors they are- the cheap ones have a tiny ID.

you and me both! :3d_frown:

i wouldn't even run 12 psi. it's pointless since the engine can't "breathe" w/your current exhaust. leave the boost alone until you have a decent exhaust....

oh, and NEVER run a fram oil filter....:3d_frown:

no restrictor on the oil inlet? if not, then there's your problem. -6 is WAY too big for oil feed.....drop it to -4 or -3 or get a restrictor....

nope, i run a stock valvetrain. nope, never heard of spitting shims on stock cams. that only happens @ higher lift/duration....or crazy high RPM....

1. running elevated boost levels on a smaller than stock exhaust is just plain stupid. 2. running elevated boost levels on stock IC piping isn't the best idea....especially given it's age/wear. upgrade the piping if you want to run elevated boost levels.

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=454

because it's a pressure based system. either throw it out or go to a temperature based system....

maybe? unless toga gets the toyota rejects....

what size is your feed/drain for the turbo?

bingo. or additionally, throw out the stupid stock oil cooler setup!

nothing different between the toga "high volume" pump and an OEM pump.

you're looking @ the later TSRM. code 21 is just o2 sensor signal. the older ECUs don't check the heater circuit, so code 21 just means that the feedback signal is either not getting to the ECU or it's not as expected. my $$ is on a dead O2 sensor. get a new one and see if that changes...

auto trans, down under dynos.

rule of thumb is .1 off your ET for every 100 lbs....