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Yeah, now that they fixed the corrosion issues of not coating the whole thing.

As a side note, you should lose most electrical power to accessories and lights when trying to crank the engine. This is true on almost all cars.

HKS 75mm turbo exhaust. The sport exhaust is for naturally aspirated cars, and had baffled mufflers.

An early concern with the hybrids like the Prius was it could thin the herd.

Don't want to answer it?

You don't understand why a manufacturer doesn't want to spend money it doesn't get back in sales?

Yes. Bad batteries are common after extended usage. And discharged batteries are common with bad charging systems or leaving things on in the car with the car off. Do you go to work for free? That isn't rhetorical.

And NASCAR goes with carburetors.

Do you read the threads on this site? You take care of your car, and I don't think it is a hack job anywhere. Just a guess. When you hack up the system, it doesn't matter what the input is anymore. That is correct. The one that fails to accurately measure in the first place will not notice...

Because the electronics from Fuji are not $60 for a reason.

In the video, it is an obvious enrichment issue. You just have to determine why. I would see what the Hz is from the AFM. I would not consider timing, because it would always be wrong. Meaning engine/cam timing. Checking components related to it is not good diagnostic. Follow the manufacturers...

Ok. A la mode?

If you are anything like most of the posters in the community, I wouldn't advise rebuilding anything.

Oxygen sensor is last in importance for trimming the signals.

I built mine rather than using a kit. Summit Racing didn't have kits at the time. I used a permacool thermostat, but a B&M heat exchanger. And I used the permacool adapter pieces for the cooler and termostat. The other part from permacool was the relocator. 18 x 1.50 is the stock stud (7mge)...

You transplanted a 2005 engine? The 6.0 or the 6.4?

On top of that, the T04E compressor is much bigger than the CT26. Backing the screw out of the Lex Meter is an ok idea to defeat fuel cut. If you have the screw slightly under flush from the housing, it will hit fuel cut around 18 psi with that compressor.

Put the hose where it is warm so it becomes pliable. Put the meter housing where it is cool to the touch. Very lightly lube the outside of the housing where the hose goes. Slips right on.

What is listed on the lid of the factory fuse box? That should tell you.

It is hard not to do it....