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The vac source is located in the intake plenum, after the TB. The valve is ecu controlled via a VSV in response to the TPS and engine rpm (NE) signals. I don't have a N/A but that's what my books show.

The filter shouldn't matter but just to be sure check and see if the big nut located just behind the steering wheel is loose ;)

Lol. Yep, it's flown the coop. Even I'm beginning to be amazed at how often this question comes up....

:icon_bigg

Ah, I see. Guess if I gave out more I'd know that ;). OK thanks...and thanks to lagged.

Thanx jdub. Yeah, I've heard it'll sludge up if there's air in the system but lots of people seem to have zero problems with it. It was the first of the straight organic technologies. I'm still scared of the stuff though, that's why I use hybrid organics. I'm too cheap to pay for the toyo stuff ;)

1) No 2) No

I second that. Change it every two years. Change that little rubber cap behind the turbo at the same time ;) mrnickleye, any opinion on Death Cool or it's clones? Some swear by it and some swear at it. I've heard it's OK as long as there's no air in the system but I doubt I'd use it in the Supra

Lol, I keep seeing that in posts but with different names. What the heck does it mean? Since this time it's mine I hope it's a good thing ;)

You can get the phosphated coolant at the dealer. I run HOAT G-05 in mine. Either will do. I'm not a fan of high silicate coolant but the green stuff is lower in silicates these days. Keep in mind the color of a coolant means little, it's just dye. Best to learn about coolants rather than go by...

Yep, that's all it's for. Either replace it or plug the line.

WIX, Purolator, Mann-Hummel, several others. All can be bought online for around $30-38/case. I prefer WIX. Toyo filters are fine though, just that there are better out there. Frankly, the full flow oil filter on a engine is pretty much useless at preventing wear but that's another story ;)

What The Boss said. Hot idle should be stoichiometric (14.7) to a bit leaner. I checked yesterday on my gas analyzer in prep for a smog test and mine is running at a lambda of .99 (14.6 AFR) during hot idle and steady state cruise. Cold idle will be richer. How richer depends on many factors...

They'll work. For $35 you could've bought a case of better filters though.

Those codes signify your 02 sensor is out of range for longer than the ecu allows.

When you close the throttle the ecu shuts the injectors off to limit HC emissions so yes, it's normal. When the engine is first started it's supposed to run rich. Everything you're seeing is normal.

The IDL contact in the TPS must be closed to set base timing. Check that and resolve the high idle first. The high idle could also be associated with the IDL contact being open.

You too...I know a lot more about pulsation dampeners than I did yesterday ;)

The tip off was he's using only the stock gage as a boost reference (while using a new CT26) so I assumed the car wasn't modded much. Lol yeah....bigger turbos, injectors, AFMs, Mafts, on and on. Who needs all that crap? Just disable the wastegate and be done with it ;)

Sorry guy, my Supra is a 5 speed. I was referring to general principles of extending tranny life on my other (or any auto) car. Mrnickleye's post says it all. Even a little increase in fluid temp drastically cuts tranny life. I was only pointing out filtration is important too. The tranny is a...