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If the system has been open to air for any length of time you need to replace the receiver dryer. Fix the break, replace any O rings on connections that've been opened (you sould lube them with a bit of mineral oil or one of the products made for that) and then have the system pumped down and...

Pretty tough to tell anything from here but I know one thing: I wouldn't buy a car I couldn't at least hear run. Who knows what evil lurks within.

Huh. The factory alarm still has starter disable so I wonder how they got around that. Towed? Who knows why they took it. It could've been simply a "target of opportunity"...in the wrong place at the wrong time. Buck up, there's a chance it'll turn up without much damage.

Spun my man, there isn't any adjustment on it that I know of. I'm not sure what screw Nick is talking about unless its the little bolt in the top that stands proud when fuel pressure is present. That's not adjustable though, it just goes through a hole and rides in a washer that's sandwiched...

Lol yeah, look how close that main terminal is to the alt case in the second photo. Yikes. Just having a little fun wooosh. No offense intended. Good luck and come back if you need something else ;)

Spun spoils the fun. Ah well ;) Wooosh, disconnect the battery before going any further. Bad form to be messing with the car's electrical system with it hooked up.

Well, you certainly have a visible problem there. It's so visible the answer is in the pictures, especially the second one. Use your bean and try to puzzle it out ;)

I think you're gonna have a tough time with this project ;)

Depends on how the TPS fails. If the IDL contact stays closed when the trottle is opened the ecu will go into fuel cut at around 2000 rpm but the MIL won't come on.

You're 18, you should start saving every dime you can now unless you want to work until for the rest of your life. Think house and education, not car. Oh, and the car is way overpriced. Hey, you asked....

There's right and there's right. Minimum, the oil should be drained and replaced, the reciever dryer changed, the system evaced, leak checked, and recharged with the correct amount of 134. Better would be to also flush the system, replace the O rings, and use barrier hose. Not many do that...

Blue weatherstipping paste? I hope it didn't contain silicone. If the gaskest is leaking the air drawn in will drive the sensor lean causing the ecu to inject more fuel so I can see that but wiping the sensor does nothing.

tubbie, shame on you. Give that $20 609 cert back ;). malloynx is right. You can get away with not changing O rings and lines (the oil will have sealed the old ones) but 134 is not miscible in mineral oil. It may take awhile but bad things will happen and when they do big money will be involved...

I can see it in your advice. Lets face it, there are mechanics and there are mechanics, if you know what I mean. It's nice to see one who keeps abreast and has knowledge of science beyond the typical wrench. It's what separates the pros from the wannabes.

No offense taken my friend. I know there are a lot of folks in the car biz who'll screw others in a second and A/C shops are some of the worst. And I'm the last guy you'll get any argument from about learning to do stuff yourself. As for the death kits, they're death kits when used as labled...

I'm in Cali so I'll keep an eye out for it. Too bad. Was it alarmed? Factory or not?

I'd leave as R12 and do what Racefiend said (even though I'm one of those A/C pros he doesn't trust ;)). It's take more than tools though. If you do convert to 134a do it right, no death kits like you have at work. Shame on your employer for even selling them.

Let us know what you find. A lazy sensor, such as one would be at 120K, could cause reduced fuel economy but the car won't run overly rich. The sensor could be lazy enough not to set a code. You could check it with a voltmeter as per the TSRM. Look for a minimum of 8 counts in 10 seconds with an...

It's an odd way to do it compared to others I've seen. For mods I could see junking it. For stock or near stock I can't.

Huh, no kidding. Now I'll have to go pull mine apart to see. Damn you guys ;) *edit* I stand corrected. You're right Jake. It is on the feed side. I checked my TCCS books and the breakdown is in there. It's acting more as a regulator than an accumulator. Damn, learn something new everyday. That...