That's wise. I suggest you clear all codes and start from scratch. There is no way the engine will run with a code 14. The ecu kills injection very soon after the code is set and if it sees it during cranking it'll shut the injectors off within 10 seconds to prevent hydrolocking.
How's about puking crap into the environment? It always amuses me how the younger generation is so quick to pollute because they're the ones who're gonna live with it the longest.
Use a catch can to clean up the PCV or fix the excessive blowby. The charcoal canister adsords evaporative...
None that I could notice Colin. At the time I did it to see if it'd kill the engine but it didn't even after 30 minutes. I was wondering because some cars will. For example I think some GM models do it.
This was before I learned the ecu uses oil pressure for tweaking cold idle speed. Since I...
Code 14 is the loss of ignition feedback. Code 32 is the AFM. Code 41 is the TPS potentiometer, 51 is the TPS idle contact (sounds like the TPS isn't plugged in) and 52 is the knock sensor. You have no O2 codes.
Of these 14, 32, and 52 will have the greatest effect. The engine shouldn't even...
You don't have a maf sensor (at least not one that'd set a DTC) so I don't get that one. It's quite possible to have codes after you rebuild an engine. Likely in fact. Either the sensors are bad, wiring bad, stuff disconnected, or the sensors are just doing their job and telling you something is...
It's true. Ask any AC shop and they'll tell you how business shoots up in the warmer months. Odd that people would wait because better deals on everything from parts to refrigerants can be had during the colder months.
Btw Nick, 98% of us are pandering to women in one way or another ;)
No, sorry guy, I don't know of one. Doesn't mean they aren't out there though. There are also filters that flow just as well as a K&N but aren't oiled gauze (or paper) and filter better. My point was that paper filters the best and will flow all you need. Why do you need something like this...
Look at your schematics and you'll see it goes to the ecu. At least it does on mine. Another tip off is that bizzare test procedure in the TSRM where you hook a light bulb to it and watch for flashing.
Yes, a direct connection. I used to think it would shut the engine down because of what happened with mine when it lost the drain plug and ran completely out of oil on the highway without the engine suffering damage. (No rod knock in that case either ;))
It won't. Since then I've learned it's...
You're in denial, just as you were in the other thread. Every symptom you have, in the combination you have, points to a BHG in the early stages. Do a block test.
Couple of thoughts. First, I've never understood this dipstick thing. Mine has never been hard to read. It's a dipstick, you pull it out and look at the oil. I don't get it. Second, the stock oil pressure sensor is an odd beast as far as sensors of that era go. It's a pressure to frequency...
I don't see how the ecu could split the cylinders into two pairs of three each because both injection and spark is controlled as three pairs of two each. Now whether the ecu is actually capable of separating those pairs I don't know. Damn it, I hate mysteries. Now it's gonna bug me ;)
*edit* I...
My two cents: The limiting flow factor is not the filter, it's almost always the rest of the induction system. It's why K&Ns are such a bad deal considering the amount of crap they let in. A paper filter on a properly sized induction system will flow all the air you'll every need and filter a...
Hi Jake. Yes, I worked with all kinds of PLCs. Allen Bradley 5s, Rockwells, you name it. Up until computers took over PLCs were the heart and soul of machine control and industrial automation. I've done more than my share of PLC programming. And you're right: the TCCS's I/O structure is very...
Again, a note of caution. Any time you open circuit a secondary ignition and allow it to fire the voltage will rise to the highest level possible. (That's why it stings so much Shaeff ;)). This can arc over the secondary windings or destroy the diodes in the GTE's coil packs. Even if this...
It's growth on your evaporator, a common AC problem. There are products made just for this but many people spray Lysol or similar in the fresh air intake to kill it. And check to see if your evaporator drain is clear.
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