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Incorrect - ARP spec for the studs is 81 ft/lbs using moly for lube. Using higher torque than the spec risks distorting the aluminum head. FYI - ARP spec for the bolts is 75 ft/lbs for this reason as well. Turbotrev - where exactly is this coolant leaking from? Can you take a pic?

That's correct...keep in mind I bought the turbo almost 2 years ago. This turbo is a bit different than the usual SP61 most guys have ;)

It's called "dynamic compression" and boost does increase that (among other things) ;)

I've got a SP61GT (non BB) on my car...I'm happy with it. Spools fast and will hit 20 psi with no problem. The down side is a few guys have had issues with it concerning oil supply and seals...it does not tolerate pushing too much oil into it or contamination. I haven't looked at SP's site...

Just throwing it out to ya man...believe me, there's more than one thread on this site when someone pushed more boost without doing fuel mods and detonated their motor. There's not a MHG out there (except maybe the HKS Stopper) that will survive that...not to mention your pistons. Keep in...

I also agree with Aye Mate...any of those turbos will meet your goals. IMO, ball bearing shaft is over kill ;) The reason I asked about fuel is a common mistake may people make...they upgrade the turbo without fuel. The added boost can cause the motor to go lean and BOOM...party over. Get...

That's a good thing...I assume with ARP hardware as well ;) What are your fuel mods?

If that's the orginal head gasket on that engine, you up the boost to make 400 HP and you'll be going into the motor ;)

It wasn't a childish comment...it was a statement of fact. Running one of the heaviest oils you can buy during the winter graphically illustrates that point...opinion is fine...gross misinformation is not. Your "opinion" just doesn't jive with the facts and you even posted a chart to prove...

Geezer - you've been out in the desert picking peyote buttons again. I live in Phoenix and fly to San Diego and LA on a weekly basis...it hasn't hit 90 during the winter since I've lived here (14 years)...high 70's maybe, but not 90. And what about the freezing temps two weeks ago...you didn't...

Be very careful about going lean with a Lex AFM and stock injectors...detonation will ruin your whole day ;)

Yep! Experience and treachery will beat youth and brute strength every time...LOL ;) In addition to stepping back and accessing the problem, I bet he doesn't let it frustrate him when he hits a glitch. That's where patience comes in...he's figured out that getting frustrated is only going...

Use Teflon paste on the threads mating to the fuel rail and AFPR...on the upper half of the threads...you don't want paste getting into the rail. If you are using AN fittings to attach the hose to the fitting in the rail and AFPR, you do not want to use any paste on the AN thread sides. I...

This is a good read ;) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter And this: http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_understandtorqueconver.cfm

I was wondering about that...did I respond on this thread? Is my CRS acting up again? LOL! I use a Duralast Gold for the same reasons JJ likes them. The heat here in Phoenix kills batteries...that's with me keeping it charged, the cells full, and tested every 3 months. The Duralast Gold...

Does this just turn it into a manual shift? Can you turn it off an go back to auto? What about converter lock-up...any control over that? BTW - Nice install...looks very professional ;)

Yeah...couldn't let the "generic recommendation" on the site he posted pass...the chart he referenced even shows thinner oil grades for cold weather. Not to mention, there's not a manual out there that recommends 20W-50 during cold weather...this kind of disinformation is what confuses the...

Do as you want, but the "thicker is better" is an old school myth from the '50s. Oil flow is what you want at start-up...your bearings need the flow to maintain the oil film in the clearances and to remove heat. Tell ya what, take a bottle of the 20W-50 and pour some in a pan at room temp...

EFI fuse...it's in the box behind the battery. Leave it out a minute or so.

That's backwards isn't it? Did you mean 40W in the winter and 50W in the summer? BTW - since you brought it up...your pressure is high, especially at idle. That heavy weight oil is doing your motor no favors by restricting flow at cold idle. Something to consider...heavy oil is not good...