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Unless the ECU receives the IGf signal (the coils actually fire), it cuts off fuel injection. You may have fuel pressure, but no fuel is going to the cylinders. I assume this is one of the older analog mutli-meters...sounds like resistance is off scale. Make sure it's set to "Ohms" and not...

3000 rpm stall...the Raybestos clutch plates are a significant upgrade. I had the full mod done to the tranny...converter, friction, valve body, etc. It's holding up very well...barks the tires when it hits 2nd ;)

I'm using a Long's TruCool.

Yep! I as well have a tranny cooler with a Spal fan on it running full time. Also installed a tranny fluid filter ;)

Marvel, Lucas, Slick 50 come to mind.

I've got an IPT built A340E...pretty happy with it.

LOL...must have been a Freudian slip :icon_bigg

That oil will be fine man...most modern oils are ;) Just go easy on her until she's warmed up and keep the oil level a quart high per what I said before. I completely understand about the $$$, but the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40 would be a better choice for your NA and help lower your cold idle...

You're welcome ;) Those are good pressures....a little high at idle cold, but better than what you had. Never, ever be tempted again to use Lucas or Marvel...lol :runaway: What brand oil did you use? The Pennzoil 10W-40 non-syn? Where is the oil level showing on the stick?

Code 14 is the ignitor and ignition coil or circuit...it's derived from the IGf signal. The ECU stops fuel injection with this code. Read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=868 Sounds like you have a bad coil pack.

Yep...both the block and head will have to be decked. The surface finish is important...a 30 RA for most MHG's, 50 RA for a Cometic (but you have to remove the rivets). I'd use ARP bolts or studs torqued down to ARP spec when you install the head. Since you'll have the block out, you might...

No...I think the GTE pan is shaped different due to the differences in cross members iirc...could be wrong on this one. Did you use a NA oil pump? The pick-up and gearing are different between a NA and turbo. When you fill with oil, check the dipstick as you do. When it hits the full...

That could be because your oil pump pick-up is too high in the pan ;) You might want to run a quart over full. Also, read post #10 again...I thought I explained it pretty well. But...what do I know :icon_conf

The plug will have no effect on your oil pressure ;) Not too sure where you came up with that one, but it's the bearings that determine pressure. Concerning the weight oil to use...read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35437 (ignore the 1J motor) and this...

Are you using a MHG or a stock composite HG?

Pennzoil Platinum is very good, but not a true synthetic...try the 5W-30 Castrol European Formula (German Castrol) is a true PAO based synthetic...it's at AutoZone and only comes in 0W-30. It's also pretty close to a 40W at operating temp. I'm concerned about your oil pressure at 3000 psi...

Is that Pennzoil Platinum? Use a good filter...not a Fram! Wix, PureOne, NAPA Gold are all good choices.

Ok...what brand and grade of oil are you using? Your pressure is good at idle...low at 3000 rpm at operating temp. Did you rebuild the bottom end on this motor? If so, where were the bearing clearances in the TRSM spec range?

That's just a mount for the fuel lines. The connection on the bottom is for the line from the tank...the top is for the line going to the FPD on the rear of the fuel rail. It surves no other purpose than to connect the two lines.

Keep in mind the supra oil pump relief valve (unless you shimmed the spring) is going to start opening at 40 psi. This in combination with bearing clearances and oil viscosity are the primary determiners of oil pressure. Thicker oil will give you higher pressure, the opposite for thinner oils...