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Not to mention the torque from the motor itself will cause the engine to move....the downpipe is fairly stiff and on one side of the motor. The flex section relieves the resulting stress to the turbo mounts. Is it required? No...is it a good idea? Yes, IMO.

No...couldn't find it. It's been a year and a half...I tried, sorry.

What is your fuel pressure, vac line attached?

You mean like these part #'s from McMaster-Carr ;) http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=806

JJ is correct on this...most of the stuff I was able to see abstracts on were the SAE tech papers. I'm not a member, so it's a moot point even mentioning them in my previous posts. Plus, like I said before, it's impossible to prove on the 7M unless a controlled study is done. Science is not...

Do your motor a favor and don't run Lucas: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm AutoZone should have the German Castrol...if not, they can order it. Mobile 1 is a good oil...I'd use the 0W-30. Pennzoil Platinum is a good choice. If you want to clean your motor out, get...

It's not a bad idea to reinforce the mounting taps in addition to metal links. I've seen the tabs break off too ;)

LOL...had to bite my tongue on that sig ;) I think at least a few of the guys are picking up on the clue...I know this thread peaked Reaper's interest. And that is a good thing. :icon_bigg

Be aware that more than one of the plastic swaybar end links have snapped on the stiffer setting ;)

The TRSM spec for the 7M is 4.3 psi or more at idle and 36-71 psi at 3000 rpm. What are you showing for pressure at these rpm ranges? The 7M oil system is a high volume, low pressure system...if your oil pressure is in spec, there is no problem. Like I said, if you are getting high...

If it were me...I'd replace the stock bolt with ARP and call it a day. I personally would not re-use the stock head bolts...having said that, the Toyota bolts are high quality and you will probably be fine if you do re-use them. Torque them down to 75 ft/lbs in multiple passes (10 ft/lb...

Yep and if I remember correctly the good Dr's wife has a Lamborghini Murcielago that's running Redline 5W-20. He changed it from M1 0W-30 because of a slight valve noise...the 5W-20 made it run a lot quieter.

Aww...I'm not always right you know ;) However, I do try to be through....lol. JJ - you've probably forgot more about oil than I'll ever know ;)

There were very few (if any) "0W" grade oils in the late 80's-early 90's...that's why you won't see them in our manuals. Lets look at the difference between Mobile 1 0W-30 and 10W-30: Mobile 1 0W-30 Viscosity @ 40 deg C 63.1 cst........Viscosity @ 100 deg C 11.0 cst Viscosity Index...

Hella Housings w/ PIAA H4 Super White bulbs on mine ;)

The ARP spec for bolts is 75 ft/lbs (using moly for lube) when used on an aluminum head. I'm pretty sure ARP knows what they are doing concerning their hardware. ;)

PM Aaron over at DriftMotion...he just might have what you need.

I would use ARP bolts or studs...torque to the ARP spec using the supplied moly for lube.

Just checking ;) I do believe you got the idea man...that's great! That link you posted is also very good...an excellent start on learning about this kind of thing.

Outstanding! This car is going to be my 1st chance to drive a 1J powered Supra...got a feeling I'm going to be impressed ;)