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The Toyota torque spec is too low ;) Plus guys like to turn the boost up on a well used motor...just doesn't last.

I'd use the stock HG and avoid the machine work cost ;) If you do this yourself, follow the TRSM exactly...there are also several threads on here that will help. One common mistake is not putting RTV on top of the front timing cover...also, you want to torque the bolts to 75 ft/lbs vs the...

You don't need to do any machine work for a stock HG install...just make sure you claen the head/block decks very well. Also check the flatness per the TRSM...if it's out of spec. you will need to have machine work done. Also (since this is a stock HG), using a spray sealer is not a bad idea...

You're getting there Chris ;)

Yeah...I know. And I know what I'm gonna do too...buy a set for the front and rear ;) I've gotta get this AEM up and running. Maybe then the car will scare me enough to want to stop really, really fast! LOL!

You'll also be quite surprised how fast the little stuff adds up...fittings, air filter, hoses, etc. Seems I was always running down to the dealer, hardware store, local speed shop...always something! :eek3dance

Andy - yes you can. Like you said, the pistions are smaller in diameter and the Cometic MHG should be slightly larger ( a few thousands) than the cylinder bore. If your bore diameter is 84mm, you want a MHG that's sized for 84mm.

That's why I asked about the spray sealer...the thread you mentioned is a sticky in the Turbo Tech section. I don't think the use of a sealer is the cause in this case since it's an NA were talking about, I agree with Jeff...the block should have been decked for a MHG. The sealer could be...

Depending on which MHG you used, the RA spec can be as low as 30. Both the block and head have to be decked to the RA spec. What kind of MHG, was it new, and did you use a spray sealer on it? Did you use ARP bolts or studs?

Keep in mind, you're asking that question to a guy who is not exactly the "king of cheap" ;) Well...I would use: - Pauter or Crower rods. - Wisco, Ross, JE are all good piston choices...ceramic coat the tops - Ferrea valves, springs, and retainers...consider 1mm oversize...don't have...

That's a very good price ;) Alamo Motorsports is a trustworthy vendor as well. Wisco pistons are nice...come from the factory w/ coated skirts. Keep in mind Wisco pistons are actually a 9.1:1 compression ratio...8.4:1 is stock turbo compression. You might want to consider a 2.0-3.0mm MHG...

Line honing aligns crankshaft main housings perfectly straight, round and true to each other. Aftermarket main caps can be fitted to blocks (if desired) when this is done properly. Well...$5K is a good start. Consider forged pistons are $500+, billet rods are over a grand, a Boss bolt-on...

The HKS Stopper is no doubt the best...it's also the most expensive. When you start talking about 500 HP+, you are also talking about big $$$. You will need a capable turbo, IC & piping, forged pistons, billet rods, machine work to fully turn, line hone & balance the crank, additional head...

Don't put the "chicken before the egg" ;) The question is how much boost do you plan on running to make a specific HP goal? For 90% of the time, the bead type MHG's are fine...this type is made by several companies. Read this link...

You are talking about IJ...and yes a machine shop with the correct equipment can get the RA down to less than 30. The problem is most machine shops don't have the equipment capable of doing so...so, IJ got himself a lapping plate. The diamond paste makes smoothing it down much faster. Yes...

The reason I asked about the tranny is focused on the neutral start switch...it must be closed for the STA signal to get to the ECU. If you have an auto tranny wiring harness on a manual tranny (W58 or R154), there is no neutral start switch...an auto tranny harness has to be "jumped" to...

Here's the troubleshoot flow chart and schematic for a code 43: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=62 The STA signal is mainly used to increase fuel injection volume during crank...since a code 43 is no STA signal until 800 rpm with the car not moving...

I get 22 MPG in the city...haven't done a long hwy cruise in a while. I hit the gas station at 300-350 miles.

Stock fuel pressure is 23-30 psi w/ the vac line attached...my Lex/550 combo seems to like 27 psi. Check your spark plug wires...might be time for a new set.

Read post #9 ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27433&highlight Any of the MHG's are good...the HKS stopper is over kill unless you're running a 500 + HP car. The RA spec is 50 for a Cometic, 30 RA for the others...that reason alone is why a lot of people use the Cometic...