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It looks like there's significantly more metal in the later casting blocks...a thicker deck, more/larger reinforcing ribs, wider pan rails. The link to IJ's thread above has pics.

I'll bet this is the difference ;) http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=923

Nope...the block off plates are for the intake manifold and side of the head where the EGR valve hooks up. The port that feeds the exhaust gas to the cooler is under it. You would have to remove the cooler, tap the port, and use a plug to seal it off. Very difficult (if not impossible) to do...

Hmmm...I wouldn't say that at all ;)

That's about the same quoted to me when I was looking at doing this a while back iirc. Machine work shop rates are not cheap. Yeah, it looks simple...turns out it's a lot harder than you would think ;) The 65mm TB is not going to give you huge gains, but it does match 2.5" IC piping...

So, basically you pulled your previous comment out of your proverbial arse ;) Got news for you...I've tried to take the stock TB apart. It's not that easy. Finding a plate that will fit is not that easy either...tried that too...none of the Ford plates I saw will work. The attachment...

Really!! :icon_conf Ever tried to do this yourself? What's the pricing from the machinist to bore the TB? And what throttle body plates from other cars fit a 65mm TB with the holes in the proper location for the actuator bar? I would love to know ;) Oliver - If you decide...

Credit to JetJock for this one ;) A shit hot gizmo from a company named Futomo. Basically it's a valve that screws into your oil pan drain plug hole made from forged brass with a stainless steel ball. Once installed, all you have to do is turn the valve open to drain the oil on your next...

It is a cap ;) It's for the heater return line on Rt Hand drive cars. On a lot of USDM motors (like mine), it's not even there at all...however, there are a lot of USDM motors that have it too. I think Toyota used whatever they had on hand during assembly.

I'm fairly sure that it does...the ECU uses the table to control above idle timing based on Vs and Ne. Any time the knock sensor "hears" a 7 kHz frequency is when the ECU pulls timing. But, on the other hand, knock should not happen until the upper power band. After start timing advance...

The values for both Toluene and Xylene is (R+M)/2 the same as ordinary fuels are rated in the US. There's really no way he would know the octane unless he mixed according to the formula above.

Ummm...you can't block the EGR cooler off with the motor in the car. It would require tapping the port at the rear of the head. The best you will be able to do is replace the EGR cooler gasket...a real PITA due to the lack of space.

Not familiar with the Mk IV ECU, but the Mk III ECU is pretty simple when it comes to timing control. What it does (assuming the motor is at operating temp and above idle) is use a table stored in memory. The ECU senses intake air volume from the AFM (Vs), engine speed (Ne), throttle position...

A 1990 with 60K :icon_eek: Great find! I would re-torque the head...I'll bet the dealer used 58 ft/lbs (stock torque). Take the torque up to 75 ft/lbs in 3-4 passes using the TRSM sequence...that should stop any HG problem, especially at stock boost. Replace your valve cover gaskets...

I've seen those marks...if they are like you describe, they are from the casting process. Do this...take a wire cap brush on a grinder or drill and hit the marks. If they smooth down with no crack, you have no problem ;)

Are those just surface cracks or do they travel down into the metal? I've coated a bunch of these...that's the worst I've seen. Most are small fractures in the casting and will cause no harm.

It's cheap :biglaugh:

This thread is about motor oil basics…API classifications, SAE viscosity standards, API base stock groups, oil data sheets, and differences in synthetic vs mineral oil. API Classifications & SAE Viscosity Standards: This is what the American Petroleum Institute uses to meet the car...

Since we're talking about gasoline, here's a list of Top Tier retailers: http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html They have to meet the following standards to be included on the list: http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html

N & D - Good post, here's some more on Royal Purple oil: Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their...