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Red Line 75W-90 for a "newer" or re-built LSD. Ford 75W-90 w/ Ford Friction Modifier or Toyota 80W-90 for a high mileage LSD.

Sounds like you want to go to Pensacola Derk ;)

Enlighten me...I have not heard of a dual track for Navs. Is "CSO" Combat Systems Officer?

Figured you knew about all this Dow...the calculators are a handy thing to do the math ;) I'd like to clarify one thing on quench...generally, a tight quench area is good, but only to the point where it does not impede the flame front across the combustion chamber. Increasing static...

Yep! Knew quite a few F-15E guys out at Luke when the RTU was there. The idea is if the pilot is incapacitated, the WSO can get the plane on the ground. It might not be pretty, but a heck of a lot better than the silk let down ;)

Further explanation ;) http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Dynamic%20Compression%20Tech.htm Here's a calculator for static CR: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html Dow - The 7M cylinder heads are designed with as much quench area as possible with the valves determining the size...

Ok...just checking ;) What thickness MHG you going to use? You might want to check with Cometic for a custom MHG...they produce the ones for Titan. Also valve timing has a fair size impact on dynamic compression...this is where adjustable cam gears are actually useful. Here's a dynamic...

Arias pistons - 8.9:1 CR - 300 grams Arias pistons - 9.0:1 CR - 312 grams How you going to handle the increased CR for the Arias or Wiscos (9.1:1 CR)?

Congrats Derk - Do well in Nav School so you can get to F-15E WSO and blow things up ;)

Fuel cut is based on air flow...you just increased yours ;) One way to get around it is to use a MAF-T Pro and switch over to speed density...lots of threads here on how to do that. Until then, you will have to turn down the boost. Your fuel pressure is way high...drop it down to 28 psi...

A log or stock manifold would be very difficult to wrap...you want to use a continuous piece w/ the ends held in place with steel "zip ties". Hard to do, not to mention it would look like crap ;) The best option for a stock type manifold is ceramic coat. Just make sure it's done on the...

I just measured a new Toyota plug...it's 1.589" (the large one). It's a steel plug with a brass colored coating. It's a press fit, so the block opening will be slightly smaller. Using these are not a problem...just make sure the plugs are recessed to fit tight in the block. Almost every one...

Yeah it is...noticed a definite difference on my motor vs a stocker. Nice and smooth ;) You'll have to ask about the re-build ability...that I don't know. BTW - if you can't go the screw in freeze plug route, make very sure you use Toyota freeze plugs vs Dorman. Toyota is metric, Dorman...

They look good too ;) The best part...actually cheaper than a new stock dampner

One more time...and repeat after me. Don't run a turbo motor without an oil cooler

Oh yes they do ;) Part #918525 ATI 410-298-4343 Get the dampner w/ the timing marks You will have to turn down your crank bolt flange to 1.780-1.810" iirc You can run the dampner with or without the AC pulley.

The thermostat bypasses the oil cooler to the return until the oil is at 180 deg F or so. The valve inside the thermostat then allows the oil to the cooler.

Dead on...even wrapping a downpipe, the metal should be protected by hi-temp paint, ceramic coating, or stainless to prevent corrosion. Wrapping IC piping is really not worth it...and please don't use duct tape!

^^^ That is an excellent idea ;)

Spaniard - You didn't answer my question: Any other "test" will provide anecdotal info...I would like to see the raw results for independent verification. Brad - You didn't respond to my post on the previous page (Post #106). Care to share how this "home testing kit" is going to work and...