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Well, I wouldn't let go of the valve timing thing until I resolved it because I dislike mysteries. Once that happens set all the marks up and install the dizzy so that after it goes in the rotor is pointing at number one on the cap. Then check for spark. Shoot a good dose of starting fluid or...

You still need to have the dizzy timed right. As long as that's good and plug wiring is right it should run on a shot of starting fluid alone. Might want to try that after checking for spark. Then you can focus on fuel. Unplug the fuel pump relay to kill injection when trying the starting fluid...

Well, I'm going off memory and a quick look at the book implies the lobe should be off to the right. However if the marks are all good than Jdub is right in that it's not valve timing. Move on to ignition. You're sure the injector wiring is now correct? Can you measure cranking vacuum?

Iirc the intake lobs are supposed to be almost straight up or slightly to the right, not left. You may be off a tooth. Do the marks still line up after all this cranking? Did you rotate the engine a few times to check that before putting the cover on? That said all the valves are closed. It...

No offense meant there guy. Just making a general statement. Your comment about what you see through the oil cap is curious though. Did you do a compression check? Does your finger get blown off the number one plug hole as you bring the crank up to TDC by hand?

I'm amazed at how something so simple continues to stump so many people. It comes from not understanding the basics behind how an engine works. That said what's up with the painted marks on the cam gears? It doesn't look like the factory marks are under them. Rennat: Can't put the cams in...

Sigh...look at post #3

Fascinating...

The main kit didn't come with the front seal? Yes, get it. That's where they usually leak. Doing a compressor without doing the front seal is nuts ;)

I've seen that. It is the same compressor. Standby for the bolt torque... edit: 19 ft/pounds on the through bolts. The only SST needed is for removing the front seal plate but you can wing it. It's similar to pressing a bearing out. Be sure to lube all gaskets and O rings with compressor oil...

You could have just stayed with the auto ECU...

Hmmm. I see that. Odd, the 87 TSRM has breakdown, rebuild, and reassembly procedures following that page. Maybe you can get somebody to scan it for you. Course, you could always get off your cheap ass and buy one ;) Or Just take the thing apart and replace everything you got in the kit...

Yeah, in the TSRM. In the AC section. Fwiw the Desno 10P is pretty easy to do.

No, once you open the throttle there is vacuum. Ported vacuum refers to vacuum sources located upstream of the throttle plate. The two you have are for the BVSV and the EGR. Since both need to be off at idle their vacuum sources are located on the atmospheric side of the throttle plate when it's...

:)

No.

I wouldn't call it either. I'd call it outright ignorance.

Ya gotta love post 18...the guy is his own worst enemy.

Aha. Sorry, thought IJ took it. I have to admit the Japs make nice stuff. .0003 eh? Tight. I have an Emco Maximat 11. A nice machine for the part-timer. I'm pretty sure it could do tenths but I'm not good enough ;)

Coolant? Also for whimps ;) I hear ya about the eye thing though. A real hassle at times...