Easy there, before I start thinking you're related to SpaceGhost. The parts you mentioned should be all you need. Get the crush washers at the dealer and don't be surprised if they turn out to be aluminum. Truth is the copper ones can be reused if annealed but that's advanced stuff and I...
Motor Magazine is a good resource for both pro and amateur alike. It's mainly geared towards repair but the back articles to 1996 alone make the site worth browsing.
Lol. Fwiw I use a smaller than stock battery so the PS will fit. Group 34 iirc. The thing has saved my wife's butt on several occasions but only once for me. You know how sometimes with the windows up the door doesn't fully latch if it isn't slammed hard enough and how it leaves the interior...
It was directed at the mount suggestion but, while I appreciate how the Navy does things, it's often better to think than follow rote procedures. After all, anyone can be a rote monkey. You can put the studs in just as tight with the head on. Assuming you chased the holes beforehand it's not a...
As you know I'm not a fan (pun intended) of electrics but I'd go with a Spal or Dakota Digital controller. I've used both and each has it's own merits.
Priority Start:
http://tinyurl.com/gs7w5
A similar gadget, the Battey Brain, provides remote control for anti-theft...
Based on the post no IGSW means no Main Relay closure means no +B to the ECU. No wonder the MIL isn't coming on and there's no spark: the EFI system is dead. Stop focusing on spark and start focusing on getting the ECU powered up.
It'll be fine Cuel. The only problem is if the temp switch fails on and runs the battery down. I avoid that and similar problems by using Priority Start modules on all my cars.
That would be VTA. Has nothing to do with causing code 51 but adjusting it could resolve 51 for other reasons, if that makes sense. Anyway 650mv is a bit high but still OK. The point is it's not low. Besides, your problem isn't TPS related.
Spiral wound AGM is a case of paying more to get less. You'll never find one in any of my cars even though on one the interior has to be partially dismantled to get at the battery.
If you have a definite need (say for anti-spill reasons or relocation) then it may be justified. However...
Not all of us have this issue. My connector is original and has never given me a single problem. Do what tcbmorris said and then keep the connector and wiring insulated from the turbo cooling line, at minimum by using the method that was done by the factory. That line is the hottest external...
^ Assuming you're talking about VTA that's actually high. High for IDL too. That said VTA should not be used to correct a code 51 because it's not the cause. And even if it were, 650mv wouldn't set the code.
One of the things that contribute to long life in a flooded cell battery is cyclic discharge. Not deep discharge mind you (a single discharge below 10 volts will cut its life significantly) but discharge to 25-50%, preferably at a slow rate. With a properly working charging system that...
1) Locate the condenser fan relay on the passenger fender. Unplug the connector. All work will be done on the harness side.
2) Cut back the outer harness covering a few inches or until you reach the harness branch.
3) Cut the yellow wire a few inches back from the connector.
4) Remove...
You really should send them out but as long as they're not internally corroded ultrasonic cleaning followed by on-the-car-cleaning has a very good chance of making them serviceable again.
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