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It's the same on this car. Jumper T and E1 in the diagnostic block under the hood and count the light flashes. It's all in the online service manual....stop waving that spoon at me ;)

Oh the humanity....;)

No, but it could blow your EFI fuse and that'll cause the car not to run. If the engine cranks but won't start check for spark, fuel, and codes. Unplug any sensor you think is bad. The ECU will switch to a backup mode and can run the engine off of it. Sometimes not well depending on the sensor...

The ECU is aggressive in setting timing. It depends on the knock sensor(s) to do that. If it sees the sensor isn't reporting back it automatically retards the timing to protect the engine, sets a code 52, and lights the MIL.

Because in N/A engines the AFM has a switch that controls the fuel pump. In the turbo it's done by the computer. Btw it's not possible for a bad AFM to blow the EFI fuse. You need to look elsewhere if that happens again. A common cause is melted O2 sensor wiring.

Lamo. Gotta love the duct tape and wire nuts.

Lets further qualify that by saying on a GTE it won't run like shit. It'll run fine. Just won't go over 3000 rpm. If it does otherwise something else is wrong, most probably the TPS. Not to mention he didn't specify which "mass flow" (the engine doesn't have a MAF) code he got.

Yeah, no spark will result in a loss of IGf going back to the ECU. It'll shut the injectors down if it sees that. Pull a plug wire and hold it near ground. Better to use an old plug or a $5 spark tester. Whatever you do don't let the pack fire into an open circuit like many people do. It's very...

You should check for actual spark. I say that because if it isn't there you should have code 14. That you don't implies you have spark, or at least the coils are being fired. If none work back towards the igniter. Check for IGt and the coil pack encoding signals coming in and test the igniter...

It ups the pressure during hot starts. You can bypass it. You could conceivably have hot start difficulties on occasion but you likely won't.

Were you referencing that measurement to chassis ground, battery negative, or across the coil? Either way those numbers are fine although all they prove (unless you were across the coil) is the packs are receiving power. It's the igniter that grounds them. I hope it's bolted to the chassis...

Assuming the button lit up the problem likely lies on the CC panel side. Check the ambient air sensor, it's near the hood latch. Or check pins 1 and 2 on connector E at the CC panel Either that or the amp or wiring to it is bad. Only way to know is to check and see if pin 14 (green/orange wire...

That ATF has cleaning properties is an old myth. It has no detergents in it. Dispersants yes, but no detergents. It possess minimal to zero cleaning action. Another piece of automotive folklore that needs to die.

Assuming the power side of the AC circuit (10 amp AC fuse, Cig fuse, wiring, and relay) are good there are only a few things that'll prevent clutch operation. Code 51 provides a quick way of checking most of these things as well as testing much of the amplifier. 1) Jumper the diag block, same...

Did you check for a code 51 with the AC on like I said to? There's only one control line to the amplifier so it's easy to test. Not so easy to get to though.

I prefer MTL over 90 and fill until spill.

Enos is better! No wait, wrong thread...PCV to accordion is better! ;)

It's modified. Note the PLCC and daughter PCB.

Look under Body Electrical. Page BE-58 and on. That's three questions btw...

1) With those mods and everything set up right a couple of pounds of steady state boost should result in an A/F ratio of about 14.7 with the fuel system operating in closed loop. 2) Run the CC diags to check all the sensors.