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Not sure about terminal 6 as I'm a 5 speed. Appears to tell the CC and TCCS you're in OD but I'd have to look at the CC manual (yes, there is a separate manual for it) to see what that pin actually does on an auto but I'm unable to do that at the moment. For starters I'd run the CC diagnostics...

Well, other than your comment about the spark "seems" to blow out I see absolutely nothing in the thread to indicate the problem is really ignition related. Funny how most everyone latched onto that too. You even questioned it by wondering about the O2 content of the exhaust stream. I'd be...

It does. After all why would it reference tranny output when it can reference actual speed? ;) OP: The TSRM is not really the place to fathom how electrical stuff in the car works. The TWED is. Note the comment next to the CC speed sensor: http://tinyurl.com/5xembo

You're confusing different speed sensors in the car. Btw a quick look at the EPC shows the rear ABS sensor appears not to be the same between auto and manual. At least they have different part numbers. Using your page as a reference they're clearly different too.

Might fix your ABS but it has nothing to do with your cruise control...

You can lead a horse to water...

I would have been very surprised if replacing the CPS did anything. Btw what's 180 times 2?

Sounds as if your Circuit Opening Relay is dropping out. You'll need to pull the cover off to check it. Btw does the MIL come on during this? If so that would explain a lot. Question for those who want to try: many cars have that hose on the blower motor. What's it purpose? ;)

I'd be happy with 50%... The oil pressure gage is on IG1, which remains hot during cranking. The radio goes off because it's on the accessory line, which doesn't. Whether pressure shows on the gage depends on several factors but it's not because the gage isn't powered.

Wrong. Again.

If you actually believe that you've got bigger problems than slow windows...

My 87T came new with the yellow ringed cable type. Last I looked it was still in there ;)

That's good rambling Frank because it's absolutely correct. It's why I said very close. Cold level will indeed vary with ambient but not by much. What it should not do is change overall. Not even a little. It's a sealed system and the best way to know everything is alright is to keep it sealed...

You can use an AN tee and a cap, as is commonly found on aircraft coolers.

Can't transform DC hommer. Nice try though. Tek: Sorry, no can do but I'll give you a hint: How does your starter motor work?

That's better ;) Btw the coolant isn't pulled from the reservoir. It's pushed back in...but I won't nitpick :)

"dumper"? At least you got "reservoir" right ;) He's correct phantom. Add coolant mix to the reservoir so it's at the full mark when cold. It should always be very close to where you filled it but only when cold. Fwiw I made another mark higher up and keep it there so as to not have the light...

Not sure if it'll help but the EPC notes what parts are common to other models. As for window speed that's simple. In the interest of safety I'll keep it to myself though ;)

Or just turn the distributor until the rotor is *on* the number one cap contact. You can use an ohmmeter to do that. The entire point of the dizzy/CPS marks is only because of the bracket. If the wires were long enough you could install it any way you wanted and still time it. Either way the...

It removes oil vapor by using the principles of condensation, surface area coalescing, and inertial (tortuous path) separation. A good can design and installation will employ all three. The captured oil is discarded because sending back to the pan would introduce combustion byproducts. Think...