Search results

Yeah, that's it. P/N 28899-42030. Most are probably long gone by now but looking at the EPC implies they all came with one and I don't ever recall having it on mine.

The heat thing reminds me: I seem to recall later cars came with a battery insulator. Does anyone have it?

Well, considering that I'm unsure of why you asked the question. Unlike much of what you'll read on this forum a schematic has no ambiguity.

They do except something about the rear of Jdub's doesn't look right. He's also got more wires coming out of that battery than a Russian fishing trawler...

I hope your problem is fixed but unless you started the engine several times during that 40 miles it's gonna take more than that to be sure.

Yeah but at what, 10% RH? It's not like some places I can think of where it's not the heat that gets to you, it's the stupidity ;)

I have no idea what that guy is talking about. As far as I know there isn't a 25 amp fuse associated with the AC system. The clutch is powered by the 10 amp fuse. When I agreed with him I was referring to the clutch testing method he mentioned. I should have screened his post more carefully. You...

^ It never ends. Kck: It's a terrible practice. Monkeys can swap parts. As long as one is smarter than the sensor/circuit and knows how to check it properly there will never be doubt, especially on stuff this simple.

Based on your other post about the heater core I'd leave it alone...

http://tinyurl.com/3soarg See the hose, 16283? Look to the right beyond the clamp. It's that flat piece. Part of the water piping. I think I see the remains of it in your first photo. Fab something up to replace it.

Must be a hell of a leak to cause those clouds ;) I don't see the heat shield for that hose btw. Bad news if it's missing.

You could always pull the lower rad hose off. If you're going to do that might as well add a flush chemical first and afterwards stick a garden hose in the lower, remove the thermostat, pull the upper and reverse flush. Flush the rad separately while you have the hoses off. Otherwise just...

Interesting stuff Jon. Even though I've been there using a different approach (MDS system) I'll be watching :)

What, no Devcon? ;) On the bolt types I drill and tap 1/8 NPT in the bolt and install a brass petcock. It beats wrestling with the stock setup when the engine is hot. Gets a bit toasty in that area you know...

^ Your two cents adds up at the pump ;) Assuming the engine is stock you should run what the manual says. All more octane does is allow the knock control system to push the timing a bit. If you want that extra bit of performance go ahead and cough up for it. Otherwise it's a complete waste of...

^ What he said although I've seen a few 7Ms that don't have that setup and use a bolt instead. I add real petcocks to those when I find them but most have the tapered seat type.

^ While I agree with leaving EGR intact the information in that post concerning the O2 sensor is mostly nonsense. Unlike Jdub I gave up long ago but I'll say this one final time: EGR was originally developed and used for detonation suppression. It's ablity to reduce NOx was a side benefit...

A single stage pump will do but aren't there some inexpensive two stagers on ebay? Hell, I know people who evac systems using engine vacuum and get away with it most of the time but I suggest you avoid that ;) You can "increase" a single stage's ultimate pressure by warming the AC lines/parts...

It's a stop. It can also be used to indicate fuel pressure is present. Forget about it. Not having it doesn't effect how the damper operates.

I'll do that but I doubt it's your problem. Run the diags in the interim. The TSRM tells you the "secret handshake" for that: http://tinyurl.com/3kombk In fact that entire section of the TSRM is pretty good about how the thing works. It's just not all that great when it comes to the schematic...