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There's one born every minute....

No, you didn't. Not unless you hooked it up contrary to their instructions and ran the car in diag mod all the time...

Thr green connector on the left goes to the coolant sensor. It doesn't appear from the picture you had it plugged into the thermal switch. It appears you have that one right although I've never seen green thermal switch connector. The wire colors on the cold start switch should be green and...

That's how the 5 speed comes wired from the factory. The auto is supposed to be wired through the NSW. Either way it's the same cancel input.

1) Code 14 will keep the engine from starting but if you're sure about spark the code might be old. Clear all codes and try again to see what gets set. 2) The two wire green connector goes to the ECI coolant temp sensor, also green. The wire colors should be green and brown. 3) The IAT sensor...

An inop CSI won't prevent the engine from starting. That said the thermal time switch (and the ECU but only when the coolant is very cold) supplies ground to the CSI. You should check that.

Kck: You don't know what everclear is? Were you never young? ;) http://tinyurl.com/ktsf3 Taka: You aren't rich. As Kck said you're either lean or have an inop EGR. Check that stuff. Also measure the O2 sensor to see if fuel control is centered.

Never stationed at Pensacola (wasn't a pilot in the military, was a cop) but been there several times. It and other places around the Gulf can be awful. I once spent a July in Moscow that was just as bad and our summer home in Odessa isn't fun at times either. Even without the thunderstorms it's...

Pretty early there ain't it? You have much to learn but that's OK, we all have to start somewhere. For you that would be reading the TSRM until you're sick of it and browsing this site. I'd invest in some tools too, one of them being a decent multimeter. Course, you'll have to learn how to use...

Check for codes with the idle problem. Look for a code 51. For the oil leak replace the valve cover gaskets and geez, don't even try tightening those screws to 70 pounds ;)

You need a better way to tune fuel at WOT. Adjusting pressure isn't a good way to do it. How's the mixture otherwise? Is the engine in closed loop at other times? As for the stutter any codes? Have you done the 12 volt fuel pump mod? If not try jumping B+ and FP in the diag block and see if...

Rich when? Part throttle or boost? And how rich? At what boost level does the stutter begin? Around 3 psi?

"Buy" instead of "but"....Dmazing bow ine better van lake kuch a fifference ;)

Imo it makes someone a poor diagnostician and all the truly competent ones I know would agree. Besides, we were talking about sensors and their circuits. Nothing even close to rocket science there, just first grade electronics. As for the TSRM it was written for the common denominator. In the...

A large enough induction leak would drive the mixture lean and increase NOx but you claim to have a rich mixture. However since CO suppresses NOx a rich mixture is unlikely. See the problem? As I've said many times before anyone seeking emissions help needs to post their test results.

Duh. Now that I look closer it is the mill. Must be the table leadscrew and bearing I see sticking out there. Thanks. Since we have a lot of this stuff in common I'm sometimes more interested in the shed than the car :)

Ian, what are the machine tools in the background? The one on the right appears to be a drill press but on the left?

Remove the 7.5 amp gage fuse or the 30 amp relay located just above the circuit breaker. Does it still happen?

How about blast tubes like on aircraft? The alternator could certainly benefit ;) Btw, a favorite link of mine. Everything you ever wanted to know about batteries and then some: http://tinyurl.com/27paxl

Ok guys, thanks. I was just curious. Heat is bad for batteries but not having a hold down is worse. No big deal. With maintenance I typically get around 8 years out of mine anyway. Only on the third one since new and all have been Johnson Controls built.